Who gnaws strawberries. How to treat strawberries from pests

We prepared, decided on the quality of seedlings, got acquainted with garden strawberries, learned about further care for her.

And only one topic remained uncovered with us: pests and diseases that can significantly reduce the yield of our pet.

Today we will talk about strawberry pests.

Strawberry is a fragrant plant known to all gardeners, even if it has not yet settled in the garden.

Like the owner of the site, his pets (vegetable ones too) have problems. Common problem: strawberry pests.

They torment the plant, they deprive the gardener of the harvest. By nature, the bush is low, flower stalks are long, thin.

Berries, ripening, tend to the ground. And there they are already waiting for lovers to feast on.

There are many of them not only in the earth. Strawberry pests annoy, attacking from the air.

Pests of garden strawberries are often small, but numerous. Because the harmfulness of pests - rolls over.

Strawberry pests: we recognize the enemy "by sight"

Insects attack the plant from all sides, damaging all its parts.

In a wet spring, some are activated, in a dry spring, others. Without the help of a gardener, strawberries cannot be protected from pests.

A large list of gourmets crawling, flying, or otherwise making their way to the strawberry bush is not encouraging.

Strawberry pests are a gardener's disaster. The berry is tender, so even slightly touched, it is affected by rot.

You can lose the crop quickly, literally in a day.

strawberry mite

The pest is specific, it even got its name from its food preferences.

The insect is microscopic, less than 0.2mm, and the damage is huge. It will not be possible to see it without a microscope: it is small, and besides, it is transparent.

Therefore, such a strawberry pest is “calculated” according to the state of the plant.

Signs of defeat:

• Dwarfing of bushes;
• Leaf wrinkling;
• Small leaves.

If the strawberries that awakened in the spring began to grow, but after the first leaves, which were ordinary in shape and size, a deformation was found, beware.

Wrinkled small leaves, a small squat bush - a sign: a "transparent tick" has settled here. He is a strawberry.

The tick sticks around the plant at the place where it comes out of the ground, populates young tender leaves. Suction from the bottom of the sheet.

Sucking out the juices causes deformation, wrinkling of the leaves, and prevents the bush from developing. Growth stops.

Harmfulness of a transparent mite increases in heat, high humidity.

These conditions, comfortable for the tick, cause an explosive increase in the number of strawberry pests. In two weeks, the cycle "from larva to new offspring" will be completed.

The southern regions have time to experience the invasion of seven generations of ticks on strawberries over the summer.

The pest is so adapted to this culture that it even spreads along its whiskers.

But he will not get to a clean area along the mustache if the gardener does not bring a strawberry mite with planting material.

It is impossible to see a tick on market seedlings. But the condition of the sheet is worth checking.

It is better to take seedlings there and from those whom you trust. There are people who professionally deal with strawberries, they value their reputation.

The stuff will be healthy - don't skimp on the untested cheap: "mean pays twice".

Strawberries inhabited by ticks will not bear fruit. In winter, exhausted bushes die.

If the strawberry "degenerated" - disappeared after the winter, it is likely that a tick worked here.

Not every drug will overcome a small but viable strawberry pest. Since this is a tick, acaricides are needed.

Choose from this class of insecticides that will not harm you (neoron is good).

For safety, it is necessary to calculate the processing time so that the saved berries do not contain any “chemistry” by the time they are harvested.

The general rule for any berry and fruit treatments: flowering plants are not processed.

Otherwise, the drug will be inside the ovary, where it will remain unextracted.

Control measures. If the tick has entered the site, and even prophylactically, take measures:

• Do not thicken the landings.
• warm up new material for planting in hot (45°) water. Enough 15 minutes.
• Remove old bushes.
• Infected - delete, immediately burn them.
• After harvesting, do not hesitate: carry out a chemical treatment by cutting off all the leaves, except for the middle ones. The tip, the point of growth, must be preserved. Everything cut is destroyed (burned), the remaining middle and soil are sprayed.
• Acaricides are not necessary, you can insist onion peel: the tick cannot stand such a “shower” either. It is better to keep the husk (200 g) in a bucket of water for several days. So it will turn out more reliable, the solution will be stronger.
• Wormwood is a good anti-mite remedy. It is poisonous, the smell is intense, it repels pests. Boiled for half an hour a mass of fresh wormwood insist day. Spray the strawberries with the filtered resulting solution - three times a season, more can be done - until the result.
• There are biological products that are not toxic for the gardener at all, destructive for the tick. Pay attention to "Fitoverm" - it will help, just follow the instructions carefully.

spider mite

Just as shallow as strawberry, its presence is revealed by "activity".

spider mite more prolific - gives 12 generations in the heat. It is colored: brown or red. But to notice it, the task is not for our vision, we need a microscope.

But small whitish spots with a yellow tint that dotted the leaves are a sign of the presence of a pest.

We need emergency measures. An unnoticed tick will destroy the leaf. Dried twisted leaves are the second sign of spider mite damage.

Finally, the tick appears clearly. He scatters the web across the sheet. This facilitates late diagnosis.

Save the plant will not work. Strawberries will not be able to bear fruit - the berries immediately dry out.

Pathogenic microorganisms pounce on an exhausted bush - it also gets sick.

Control measures. Same as with strawberry mite.

Additionally:

• If the plantation is infected, spill it with hot water in the spring. The plant will withstand 60° without damage if planted earlier.
• Moisten a plot with strawberries in the heat. This will prevent the spider mite from actively multiplying.
• If you notice a characteristic damage even on one leaf, destroy the entire plant.
• Observe agricultural technology: the tick infects old plants, it is necessary to rejuvenate the plantings. Replant young bushes after 5 years to another place, and remove the old ones, then burn them.

Plant odorous plants near and between the ridges. The tick does not tolerate their phytoncides.

• Calendula;
• Garlic;
• Marigold.

If there is a bush of wormwood nearby in the garden, it is also useful.

Extreme method: steaming. On sunny days, a film tightly pressed to the bed will warm up the plantings so that the pests will die.

But do this only in August, when the harvest is harvested. Dried leaf then rake, burn.

Roots and growing points withstand, expel a healthy leaf, overwinter well.

In the spring they are healthy.

Raspberry strawberry weevil

A beautiful name, but the deeds of this strawberry pest cannot be called beautiful.

Weevil, a businesslike little bug, sticks its nose even into berries. Or rather - in the buds, which is why they also call it "raspberry flower beetle".

But the weevil begins and ends the feeding season on strawberries.

The weevil hibernates right on the berry beds, under foliage or in the soil. It is perfectly adapted to survival: it comes out to feed simultaneously with the awakening of the plant.

Males are more unpretentious - they can eat a leaf without causing significant harm. But the females spoil the buds.

They lay their eggs in a gnawed bud, and also gnaw flower stalks.

Where the weevils ruled, the harvest can not be expected. The buds will fall off, larvae develop in them.

But that's not all the damage. In a month, young beetles will come out of the buds. They will also eat leaves before wintering.

The weevil also feeds on raspberries, using different terms flowering crops. It flies back and forth.

Control measures. "Taking" a voracious bug is not easy. Biology must be taken into account.

Any remedy - improvised homemade, or pesticides, should be used on time.

And the right time is the time of vulnerability of the beetle. He is usually protected.

But there is an Achilles' heel in the weevil, a lover and pest of strawberries.

Beetles wait for the formation of buds. When this period approaches, the pedicels straighten out, but the bud is still in its infancy.

Impatient weevils stick around the peduncle at the base of the future bud.

Now they are not covered by a leaf, the beetles are not up to hide and seek, the females are waiting for the moment of laying eggs.

That's when the time has come: it is necessary to process until the inflorescence opens.

The following treatments will help:

• Dissolve a handful of mustard powder in a bucket of water, you don't even need to insist. Beetles are active closer to the night, in the evening they are already sitting - you can spray.
• In general, burning or toxic raw materials are detrimental to the weevil. Therefore, make a strong infusion of hot pepper (boil, then insist for two days).
• Wormwood and tansy are a good help in the fight against an intruder. Make infusions from them.
• In any herbal infusion, the addition of soap will be appropriate - adhesion to the sheet will improve.

Important point: The female lays eggs for a long time - a month. Therefore, she manages to harm both early strawberries and raspberries.

Then he returns to the plots, where late strawberries bloom. You will have to work hard, catching the moment more than once.

• The weevil is also destroyed mechanically - by collecting, shaking off the bush onto the underlying material. Fallen buds are also collected, dry leaves are removed.
• In the pre-winter season, they dig aisles, lay out traps (rags, heaps of leaves), where the strawberry pest will be tempted to crawl in for the winter. Then they burn these traps with beetles together.

Many beetle insecticides produced, of course, will be partially destroyed:

• "Alatar";
• "Novoaktion";
• "Kemifos".

But they are not harmless to humans. The gardener's choice.

strawberry leaf beetle

A ubiquitous strawberry pest in the country. Both the heat of the South and the cold of the North do not frighten him.

It is habitually found in the West - in Europe, and in the East - to the Far East.

From the name it is clear: the insect eats leaves.

This is a beetle. Small, yellow-brown. Sometimes reddish. He has a funny name: strawberry goat.

This goat harms the whole season, moreover, the beetle itself and its children are larvae.

Even young beetles gnaw on leaves until they leave for the winter.

Beetles eat in different ways. They can make holes in the leaves in the center, they can - near the edges.

And even inside the tissue of the sheet will take root, forming passages there, and outside everything seems to be intact.

The larvae are not so inventive, they chew the pulp of the lower plate, gnaw holes in the leaf from below.

When there are many leaf beetles, the leaves dry and die.

A goat with a size of 3 mm is not so harmless. The female lays eggs very small, their diameter is half a millimeter.

The yellow larva is already visible - it reaches 5 mm, which eloquently speaks of the voracity of the leaf-biter (as the strawberry pest is also called).

These are the consequences of the "work" of the strawberry leaf beetle:

• Leaves gnawed by a beetle do not feed the plant normally.
• Berries may set, but do not grow.
• The ties mostly fall off.
• The plant dies.

The beetle hibernates, like many pests, next to strawberries, under plant debris. In the spring, the cycle repeats.

The females are extremely fertile. Strawberries do not bloom for long, but the leaf beetle manages to lay 200 eggs.

Control measures:

• Do not allow weeds to grow nearby, which the strawberry leaf beetle also loves. This is meadowsweet (there is a grassy form), goose cinquefoil. Actually, these "weeds" - medicinal plants. But they have a common pest with strawberries.
• To clear the plot of deciduous litter is the beetle's winter shelter.
• The leaf beetle does not like tobacco. Therefore, tobacco dust can help scare it away.
• When the strawberries bear fruit, the ground next to it is loosened. There are already beetle pupae, or a “room” prepared for pupae. Loosening will break the winter "apartments", and partially destroy the pupae. The number of beetles will decrease.

Chemicals are used as a last resort. Better modern, low-toxic (karbafos does not apply to them, it is a hard insecticide, harmful to people).

The effect will be the processing of the bottom plate of the sheet, pests are concentrated there.

strawberry nematode

Worms start up not only among representatives of the world of animals and people. Plants have them too.

The strawberry nematode is proof of this. This is a roundworm.

It has many complex Latin names according to biological classification. But the meaning is not so complicated.

The northwest, the Central regions, the North Caucasus are the favorite places of the strawberry nematode.

The microscopic worm does great harm. It can damage the plant both superficially and penetrate into the tissues.

The adult hibernates in the tissues of the host plant.

As always, observation, the attentive attitude of the gardener to the green wards will help to identify the pest.

Signs of nematode damage will be:

• Short, rough thick leaf cuttings;
• Wrinkling and shredding of the sheet;
• Slow bush growth;
• Deformed (like cauliflower) flowers;
• Short pedicels.

If the stems are affected (stem nematode), the symptoms are similar.

To them are added:

• Bubbly appearance and leaf curl;
• Bloating on petioles.

Control measures:

• Agricultural technology - crop rotation. The interval is 5 years.
• Identification, removal, burning of diseased plants.
• Placing a number of odorous volatile plants (calendula, marigolds).
• Wash new seedlings with a manganese solution (weak) or saline (strong). In the second option, the salt should then be washed off. This is a good disinfection, protection against nematodes.

Ants on strawberries

Habitually considering ants as beneficial insects, we rarely think about the "tandem" of an ant and strawberries.

Ants love our sweet garden culture. Moreover: anthills arrange under it.

The latter is detrimental to strawberries. What if the plot is chosen by ants?

There is an exit. Ants will not settle where there is little or no - aphids. The aphid is the main feeder of the ant, it secretes a sweet secret - the food of insects.

By reducing the number of aphids, reduce the number of ants. Aphids can be “expelled” with an ash-soap solution, a decoction of wormwood.

Ants are disposed of with poisoned baits with boric acid:

• Honey - 2 tablespoons;
• Sugar - a spoon;
• 10 g acid (boric).

The composition is poisonous to insects and lures them.

You can make yeast balls - yeast and water. Sweeten the mixture and roll into small balls.

There are also chemicals (Combat). But it is better not to bring it to this, to scare away the ants earlier.

It’s more correct to distract them: everyone knows the benefits of an ant, and it’s difficult to cope with an anthill. Relocate aphids away from strawberries - sow legumes.

She will populate them with joy, the ants will switch to their "cows" away from the berries.

Well, nearby, in the garden, it is desirable to lime the aphids, then the ants themselves will leave.

Sometimes the stubbornness of ants has to be overcome by force. Evict them along with the anthill.

Already at dusk (then all the ants are together), dig out the anthill along with the eggs, place in a bucket. Take this bucket away from the garden.

Protect yourself with oiled gloves, otherwise they will bite - the ants are desperately defending themselves.

And “oil” the top of the bucket, the insects will not cross this barrier, they will not run away.

Work carefully - do not kill the ants. They will settle down where you take their housing and future children, without disturbing anyone.

Slugs

The naked slug is one of the main competitors of the owner of the site in the fight for the strawberry crop.

It especially respects if there is shade and moisture nearby, thrown pieces of film, rags, planks, and other shelters.

From there, the slug makes night raids, and in cloudy weather it feeds during the day.

His target is a berry. Likes slug juicy, especially strawberries. As soon as she bows the berry, leans against the ground, the slug has already bitten it.

Worse, slugs crawl perfectly along stems, leaves, pedicels. And they find a berry even at a height.

A couple of days of rain and no harvest.

Control measures. Less "chemistry" and those who eat slugs themselves will appear on the site. Frogs, hedgehogs. Birds love to eat slugs.

And approaches to the berry from the slug can be protected:

• Pour sand under the bushes, and sifted ash on top. The slug will not be able to overcome this alkaline barrier of ash. It is also uncomfortable for a slippery strawberry pest to crawl along the sand.
• Plant the bushes sparsely, sprinkle the ground with mustard in the aisles and near the bushes - after the rains.
• Water moderately, do not over-wet.
• Choose sunny, ventilated areas for strawberries.
• You can use non-woven material, make holes in it, skip bushes in them. Berries will lie on this material, not on the ground.
• Keep the garden clean - deprive slugs of shelters.
• Timely remove the films that covered the plantings in the cold. Films stacked along the ridges, already unnecessary, attract the pest, it lives luxuriously and breeds under them. Take it off and see. Sparrows will also see, they will eat well.

For every edible plant - fruit, tuber, root, berry, fruit - there are numerous gardener competitors.

The season is in conflict. And who will overcome whom depends not only on the weather. More from observation, knowledge, diligence of the owner of the site.

Protecting strawberries from pests is a simple but troublesome task.

To make the gardener happy with strawberries, pest control is organized correctly.

It is necessary to take into account any vulnerability in the biology of each lover to eat berries. Put knowledge to good use.

Strawberry pests can destroy the entire crop, and therefore the fight against them must be carried out constantly.

See you soon, dear readers!

Strawberries or garden strawberries are one of the most popular berries in the garden plots of Russian gardeners. Breeders have bred many different varieties, which are distinguished by excellent taste, productivity, cold resistance, but none of them has protection against most of the diseases typical of the culture. They love strawberries and pests that can deprive the gardener of a significant part or even the entire crop. Therefore, you need to know how to recognize the problem, deal with it and what to do for prevention.

Possible problems when growing strawberries

Strawberry diseases and pest damage manifest themselves in a variety of ways. The same symptom may indicate a completely different problems. The first warning sign is change appearance plants. Sometimes this is due to certain maintenance errors, and the situation is normalized when they are corrected. But there may be other reasons as well. The most common symptoms:

• Shrinking drying berries. Most often this is due to intense heat and prolonged lack of precipitation. Strawberries are a moisture-loving crop, proper watering is very important.
• Lack of fruits. This may indicate that the variety belongs to the category of "weedy", fruit ovaries on such bushes are absent in principle (they do not bloom at all or form only barren flowers). Other possible reasons- old or, conversely, new plants, lack of fertilizers, freezing of bushes (especially not winter-hardy varieties). If the ovaries appear, but dry and fall off, the most likely cause is the appearance of a weevil beetle.
• Low yield, small berries. Most likely, this is due to the presence of problems with pollination, especially if the strawberries are grown in a greenhouse. Bees and bumblebees are not too active in cool, damp weather.
• Yellowing leaves. There are many reasons for this. The most common are planting plants in direct sunlight (they burn the leaves), too acidic substrate, moisture deficiency, lack of nutrients - magnesium (leaves become covered with small yellowish spots), nitrogen (acquire a lemon-yellow hue), iron (turn yellow between the veins) . It may also be due to the appearance of insects that feed on the juices of the plant - aphids, spider mites, weevil.
• Reddening leaves. Toward the end of summer and autumn, this is natural. During the growing season, such an unnatural shade can be caused by a potassium deficiency or excessive planting density.
• Drying leaves. Most often, the cause is various fungal diseases (any spotting, late blight) or the appearance of pests (whitefly, strawberry leaf beetle). In extreme heat, the leaves dry due to a lack of moisture.
• Curling young leaves. This symptom is typical if the planting is attacked by a strawberry mite.
• Deformed fruits. The main reason is boron deficiency. This may also be due to the fact that the plants during flowering came under return spring frosts - because of them, the receptacle suffers.

Photo gallery: symptoms characteristic of common diseases and pests typical of strawberries

White rot rarely affects strawberries growing in a greenhouse, as well as on vertical beds.

Derozal, Horus, Byleton or Switch are used to combat white rot. The number of treatments and their frequency - in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

The use of any chemicals is strictly prohibited during fruiting and for at least 15 days before it. It is also very undesirable during the flowering process.

To prevent white rot, garlic or onions are planted between rows of strawberries. Once every 8-10 days, the bushes are sprayed with infusion mustard powder, ground red pepper. The soil in the garden is sprinkled with sifted wood ash. If most of the bushes in the garden were affected by the fungus this year, 2-3 weeks after harvesting, the plants and soil should be sprayed with any of the recommended preparations.

Gray rot

The fruits are covered with a thick layer of gray "fluffy" plaque. If you touch them, clouds of "dust" of the same color rise into the air. The disease spreads rapidly, especially with direct contact of sick fetuses with healthy ones. If nothing is done, the fungus can destroy 50-90% of the entire crop. Less susceptible to gray rot are early ripe strawberry varieties, especially Ruby pendant, Novinka, Druzhba, Pocahontas. The lack of light, dense plantings, high humidity, and excess nitrogen in the soil contribute to its development.

Gray rot of strawberries spreads from diseased berries to healthy ones very quickly.

For prevention, just before flowering, strawberries are treated with an infusion of onion or garlic arrows, HOM, Tiram, Figon preparations. It is watered from the moment the buds appear only under the root, the soil must be mulched so that the berries do not come into contact with the ground.

To cope with the fungus, you need to regularly remove the affected berries and thin out the plantings. Watering is sharply reduced, allowing the soil to dry well. After that, for 2-3 weeks, ordinary water is replaced with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. With each loosening, a little wood ash, crushed into chalk powder, is poured onto the bed. It is also desirable to carry out foliar feeding - 2 g of boric acid and 20 drops of iodine per 10 liters of water.

Video: ways to deal with gray rot

Root rot (rhizoctoniosis)

Most often, strawberries suffer from this disease if the crop rotation is not followed, as well as when planting in the garden, where any Solanaceae grew before. Roots (especially young ones) quickly blacken, become slimy to the touch. They dry out and break easily. Then similar lesions appear on the leaf petioles and "horns". The bush can be almost effortlessly removed from the soil.

To cope with this disease is almost impossible. Clearly enough, it manifests itself only when the disease has already gone too far. The best prevention is competent agricultural technology. Before planting, it is recommended to hold the roots of new bushes for 2–3 minutes in hot (40–45ºС) water, or for 10–15 minutes in a solution of Fitosporin, Maxim, Previkur.

Symptoms characteristic of the development of root rot appear on the aerial part of the plant when the process has already gone far enough

If the root rot has affected only a few plants, they are immediately dug up and destroyed. The soil in this place is shed with a 3% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. The bed is well loosened, at the same time introducing granules of Alirin-B, Trichodermin into the soil. Too abundant watering is strictly contraindicated. Water is best replaced with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate.

powdery mildew

The disease is easy to recognize, but it is quite difficult to cope with the fungus. On leaves, petioles, berries, stalks, a white coating appears, similar to spilled flour. Gradually, these areas grow, the plaque "compacts" and darkens, changing color to brown-brown with a purple tint. Affected berries crack, leaves dry up. There is no such strawberry.

The development of the disease is facilitated by cool damp weather, sharp fluctuations in temperature, dense plantings, excess nitrogen in the soil, improper watering (both moisture deficiency and its excess). Resistant to pathogenic fungus varieties Olivia, Polka, Pandora, Ruby Pendant, Sparkle, Galicianka.

Powdery mildew seems like a harmless bloom that is easy to wipe off the leaves, but in fact it is a dangerous disease.

To prevent the development of powdery mildew, strawberries are dusted 3-4 times with colloidal sulfur during the growing season, the soil in the garden is shed with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. The procedure is carried out as soon as the first leaves appear, before flowering, immediately after it and 15–20 days after the end of fruiting. During the growing season, you can use folk remedies, once every 10–15 days, spraying strawberries with a solution of soda ash (40 g per 10 l of water), wood ash or laundry foam, green potassium soap. Useful and foliar top dressing with boric acid, copper sulphate and zinc sulfate, positively affecting plant immunity.

To cope with the disease, use any copper-containing preparations - fungicides. The most effective are Topaz, Bayleton, Kuproksat, Horus. Euparen, Karatan are introduced into the soil during loosening.

Video: how to get rid of powdery mildew on strawberries

Fusarium

From this fungus, almost loving culture in the garden can suffer. Hot, dry weather favors the development of the disease. As a result, the aerial part of the plant dries up completely. First, small brownish spots appear on the leaves, then the petioles, shoots (“whiskers”) and “horns” turn brown. The leaves dry and curl, the bush “falls apart”, the outlet seems to fall into the ground. The whole process takes 4-6 weeks. There are varieties of strawberries resistant to fusarium - Bohemia, Capri, Flamenco, Christine, Sonata, Florence, Omskaya early, Alice.

Folk remedies in the fight against fusarium are absolutely useless

Folk remedies against the fungus are useless. Effective prevention the development of fusarium - fungicides of biological origin (Agat-25K, Trichodermin, Fitosporin, Phytodoctor). The bed and plants are sprayed once every 1.5–2 weeks. In a solution of the same preparations, the roots of new bushes are soaked before planting.

In cases of mass destruction, Fundazol, Benorad, Horus are used to combat Fusarium. If it was not possible to cope with the problem, the bed is thoroughly cleaned, plant debris is burned, the soil is shed for disinfection with a 2% solution of Nitrafen. Strawberries can be re-planted in this area after at least 5–6 years.

White spotting (ramulariasis)

The leaves are covered with small purple-scarlet rounded spots. Gradually they grow, in the middle they become whitish, grayish or light beige. The disease spreads to petioles and fruits. As a result, the affected tissues die off, holes form on the leaves. They wither and dry up. Brownish spots appear on the berries, spores penetrate into the strawberry pulp, greatly spoiling its taste. The fungus spreads very quickly, especially with high humidity. Most often, the disease develops closer to the middle of the growing season.

White spot rarely leads to the death of the plant, but significantly reduces the yield.

For prevention, the soil in the garden, plants in the budding phase and about a month after harvesting are sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or Cineb, Falcon preparations. Particular attention should be paid to the processing of the underside of the leaves. In case of mass defeat, Horus, Bayleton, Strobe are used.

brown spot

Most often, the disease develops during fruiting. On all parts of the plant, first of all, on young leaves, vague dark brown spots shimmering purple. The fruits become smaller and turn brown, the leaves and "whiskers" dry up. The bush may lose 60-70% of its green mass. The fungus-causative agent successfully winters in plant debris, it is carried by insects. It is also spread by direct contact with water droplets.

The brown spot fungus most often overwinters in plant debris or in the soil, remaining viable even in severe frosts.

Folk remedies in the fight against brown spotting are ineffective. For prevention, the first leaves that appear, as well as buds, are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid or HOM. In case of mass destruction, Oksihom, Kuprozan, Skor, Ridomil-Gold are used.

Anthracnose

Plants suffering from nutrient deficiencies, as well as those on which even slight mechanical damage is present, are most susceptible to the disease. Spores of a pathogenic fungus are carried by wind, insects, raindrops. Strawberries of the variety Pelican, Idea, Pegan, Daver do not suffer from anthracnose.

Leaves and fruits are covered with brick-colored spots with a brown or yellowish-beige border. Gradually they grow, merge with each other. Then the spots turn into depressed "ulcers" bordered with purple, their surface cracks, droplets of a cloudy pinkish-yellow liquid stand out. The leaves dry, the petioles become very fragile, the entire aerial part of the plant dries up and dies.

Anthracnose is easily recognizable by the "depressed" spots on the berries, petioles and leaves.

The most effective drugs to combat anthracnose are Acrobat-MC, Skor, Fundazol. For prevention, strawberries and soil in the garden are sprayed 3-4 times per season with Fitosporin, Topsin-M or Gamair. It is useful to add any biostimulant to the solution (Epin, Zircon, potassium humate).

Verticillosis

The pathogenic fungus primarily affects the roots. Symptoms on the aerial part of the plant appear only when the process has already gone far enough. Strawberry bushes shrink, stop developing. The petioles turn red, the berries turn brown and deform, the leaves dry from the very bottom.

The best prevention of verticillosis is to follow the recommendations for growing strawberries, first of all, the right feeding. If the disease has already gone too far, the affected bushes are dug up and burned, the bed for disinfection is shed with any fungicide. On the early stages development of verticillosis, you can use the drug Maxim, Fundazol, Fitosporin, Fitodoktor.

Coping with verticillium is quite difficult, therefore Special attention focus on the prevention of this disease.

There are varieties of strawberries that have genetically built-in immunity to this disease - Lambada, Figaro, Lakomka, Tsarskoselskaya, Favorit. Most of them are also not affected by gray rot.

Video: the most common strawberry diseases

Common pests: how to identify and deal with them

Strawberries to taste not only to people, but also to many pests. Moreover, most of them are dangerous not only in themselves, but also as carriers of pathogenic fungi, viruses, bacteria.

Not only strawberries and raspberries suffer from it, but also most plants from the Pink family. Both adults (small black bugs) and larvae harm plantings. The former feed on the juice of the leaves. Then the females lay their eggs in flower buds, while gnawing at the pedicel. The hatched larvae eat them from the inside, destroying the fruit ovaries. The buds turn black, fall off.

Both adult individuals and larvae of the raspberry-strawberry weevil cause harm to strawberries.

For prevention, onions, garlic, marigolds, nasturtiums are planted between the rows of strawberries or along the perimeter of the beds. Crops that may be affected by the weevil are placed as far apart as possible. Not bad help prevent the appearance of weevil and folk remedies - an infusion of wormwood, tansy, hellebore, walnut shells, mustard powder, onion peel. Strawberries are sprayed about once every one and a half weeks, and in the budding and flowering phase - every 2–3 days.

In the event of a massive pest invasion, regularly early morning the bushes are vigorously shaken, having previously spread newspaper, oilcloth, and covering material under them. A good effect is also given by home-made traps - bottles filled with sugar syrup with the addition of yeast. The necks are lubricated with vegetable oil from the inside so that the pests cannot get out. Bushes and the soil under them are sprayed with Novaktion, Iskra-M, Kinmiks. Processing is necessarily carried out after harvesting in order to destroy the larvae wintering in the soil.

One of the most common and dangerous pests for crops. It is impossible to see it with the naked eye. The leaves are covered with small brown dots, acquire an unnatural yellowish tint. Their surface becomes corrugated, young leaves do not unfold at all to the end. Most likely, strawberries will not die from this, but the yield will decrease significantly (by 50–60%).

The strawberry mite is one of the most common strawberry pests.

For prevention, after harvesting, the plants must be sprayed with Karbofos. During the growing season, the soil is dusted 3-4 times with colloidal sulfur. From it you can also prepare a solution for treating bushes. Folk remedies - infusion of onion or garlic gruel, dandelion leaves. Before planting, the roots of seedlings are immersed for 2-3 minutes first in hot (40-45ºС), then in cool (15-20ºС) water.

If the pest has bred en masse, Fufanon, Kemifos, Novaktion, Aktellik are used. Varieties Zenga-Zengana, Torpedo, Vityaz, Zarya are resistant to strawberry mite damage.

Small brown bugs settle mainly on the underside of the leaves. They feed on leaf tissues, gnawing them from the inside. The females lay their eggs on petioles. The hatched larvae also feed on leaf tissues. They become thin, translucent, sometimes holes appear. As a result, the bushes stop in development, fruiting stops.

The main harm to strawberries is caused by the larvae of the strawberry leaf beetle.

To scare away the pest from the garden, in early spring the soil is sprinkled with tobacco dust or dry leaves crushed into crumbs. But this should not be abused so that the taste of the berries does not deteriorate. Before flowering, strawberries are treated with Karbofos or Karate. Regular weeding is required. Especially carefully it is necessary to destroy meadowsweet and goose cinquefoil. The strawberry leaf beetle feeds on these plants too.

Very small white moth-like butterflies cling to the underside of the leaves. Any touch to the bush is enough for them to rise into the air. The leaves are covered with a sticky coating and a layer of soot fungus. Whiteflies feed on plant sap, so the tissues gradually discolor, then the leaves turn black and die.

For some reason, the strawberry whitefly is especially indifferent to the color yellow; this feature is used in the manufacture of traps.

A good effect in the fight against whiteflies is given by homemade traps made from pieces of cardboard. yellow color, smeared with something sticky (long-drying glue, sugar syrup, jam, honey, petroleum jelly). In the event of a mass invasion, Aktara, Rovikurt, Konfidor are used. Folk remedy - any shampoo or flea spray, which includes fipronide. For prevention, onions and garlic are planted between the rows of strawberries, plants are sprayed with an infusion of arrows or gruel every 10–12 days.

Nematodes are tiny thread-like worms that feed on the juice of young leaves. They settle in their sinuses, so they are almost invisible. Females lay their eggs on the roots - they are covered with spherical bulges about the size of a poppy seed. In the process of feeding, nematodes infect tissues with a substance that interferes with normal metabolism. As a result, the leaves turn yellow and deform, the veins on them thicken, the number of buds decreases sharply, and the berries become smaller.

The strawberry nematode is almost impossible to see with the naked eye.

Nematodes do not tolerate heat at all. Therefore, the roots of the bushes are immersed in hot water for several minutes before planting in the ground. She also watered the garden in early spring. The first young leaves are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid. The pest affects not only strawberries, but also potatoes, peas, and onions. They need to be planted as far apart as possible.

Strawberry nematode larvae hatching from eggs damage the roots of strawberries, eating them from the inside

To combat the nematode, Phosphamide, Vitaros, Carbation, Heterophos are used. After harvesting, strawberries are treated with Skorom, Fundazol. A folk remedy is an infusion of nettle, but it does not always give an effect.

Aphid

One of the most "universal" pests, affecting both garden and houseplants. These small insects of different shades (from greenish-yellow to black-brown) settle on them in whole colonies, sticking around the inside of young leaves, buds, fruit ovaries. The aphid feeds on the sap of the plant, so the affected areas are covered with small beige dots, the leaves are deformed and curled. At the same time, a sticky transparent coating appears. It is worth noting that most often aphids live in a stable symbiosis with ants, and they will also have to be fought.

Aphids are a pest that does not disdain almost any horticultural crops, strawberries are no exception.

The pest is effectively repelled by any pungent odors. It is useful to plant any spicy herbs next to the strawberry garden, as well as wormwood, marigolds, fennel, lavender, and chamomile. Many of these plants attract natural enemies of aphids, ladybugs, to the site. All this greenery, as well as tops of tomatoes, potatoes, onion and garlic arrows, lemon peel, hot peppers, tobacco chips can be used as raw materials for making infusions. To prevent the appearance of aphids, it is enough to spray strawberries once every 8–10 days, if insects are found, 3–4 times daily.

Chemicals are used only in case of a massive pest invasion. Usually quite enough folk remedies. Any insecticide can be used general action- Aktara, Iskra-Bio, Inta-Vir, Konfidor and so on.

Video: folk remedies to combat aphids

Chafer

The main harm to strawberries, as well as to other horticultural crops, is caused by the larvae of the May beetle, which eat the roots of plants. As a result, the bushes quickly die.

Effective pest prevention is annual deep loosening of the soil in spring and autumn. White clover is planted in the aisles, saturating the soil with substances that repel larvae. In early spring, before the leaves bloom, the substrate in the garden can be poured with diluted ammonia (2 ml per liter) or make several deep grooves, filling them with Decis, Karbofos granules. Folk remedy - infusion of onion peel. During the spring, it is poured 3-4 times under the roots of each bush.

May beetle larvae eat the roots of the plant and can destroy the entire bed of strawberries in a short time.

To combat the larvae, drugs Nemabakt, Pochin, Zemlin are used. Adults from planting strawberries are scared away by elderberry, lupine, and turnip planted next to the garden bed.

spider mite

The pest is easy to identify by the thin, translucent threads, similar to cobwebs, braiding leaves, buds and fruit ovaries. It feeds on the juice of the plant, the affected areas of the tissues gradually turn yellow and dry. It settles mainly on the underside of the sheet, it is gradually covered with a thin whitish film. Varieties Pervoklassnitsa, Anastasia, Sunrise, Cinderella Kuban are resistant to spider mite damage.

The spider mite is not an insect, therefore only special preparations - acaricides - give the desired effect in the fight against it.

For prevention, onions, garlic, calendula, and marigolds are planted between strawberry bushes. The bushes themselves are sprayed with an infusion of onion or garlic gruel, a decoction of cyclamen tubers. But such folk remedies do not always give an effect. If a significant part of the bushes in the garden has suffered from a tick, it is better not to waste time and immediately apply specialized preparations - acaricides (Aktofit, Akarin, Vertimek, Neoron, Apollo). They need to be changed with each new treatment - the pest develops immunity extremely quickly.

Slugs

Another "omnivorous" garden pest. Slugs are like shellless snails. They feed on the pulp of strawberries and leaf tissues, making holes or through passages in it. Their traces are noticeable on the surface of fruits and leaves - stripes of a sticky silvery coating.

Slugs do not differ in movement speed and camouflage abilities. Therefore, manual collection of pests gives a good effect. It is best to do it early in the morning. At this time, the slugs gather under the leaves and are the least active. You can also use traps - cabbage leaves, grapefruit halves filled with beer, sugar syrup, jam containers dug into the soil.

Slugs are unable to destroy strawberry bushes, but they greatly spoil the presentation of berries

To protect against pests, bushes are surrounded by a “barrier” of powdered egg or nut shells, sand, pine or spruce needles. The soil is sprinkled with tobacco chips, wood ash, mustard. Any sharp-smelling spicy herbs are planted around the perimeter of the beds. You can also try to attract natural enemies of slugs to the site - hedgehogs, frogs and birds. Ordinary chickens do a good job.

Insecticides are used only in case of a massive invasion of slugs, which is quite rare. Best effect give drugs Metaldehyde, Thunderstorm, Slug-eater.

Video: how to deal with slugs in the garden

Preventive measures

Any problem is much easier to prevent than to deal with the consequences later. This also applies to diseases and pests of strawberries. Bushes that are properly cared for are much less likely to suffer from fungi, viruses, bacteria, and are attacked by insects. There is nothing difficult in prevention:

• Keeping the garden clean. Strawberries need to be regularly weeded, in the fall - remove all plant debris. Dry leaves are removed from the bushes during the growing season. Mulching will help save time on weeding. But the mulch layer also needs to be updated from time to time, otherwise it will do more harm than good.
• Deep loosening of the soil. Ideally, this should be done every time after watering. Or at least early spring and mid-autumn. This helps to destroy eggs and larvae of pests, spores of pathogenic fungi that hibernate in the soil.
• Compliance with crop rotation. In the same place, strawberries can be grown for a maximum of 3-4 years. Then the bed is cleaned, the soil is disinfected by spilling it with Bordeaux liquid or blue vitriol. You can return strawberries to it again in 5-6 years, not earlier.
• Good selection of seedlings. It is recommended to buy it only in credible nurseries or other trusted suppliers.
• Preplant preparation. For disinfection, the roots can be soaked in hot water, a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, or any fungicide of biological origin. Copper-containing preparations destroy most pathogenic fungi.
• Compliance with the landing plan. If the plants are too dense, a closed, moist environment is created, ideal for the development of many diseases and pests. Also, planting density contributes to their rapid transfer from diseased bushes to healthy ones.
• Timely and correct feeding. Do not overdo the nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Their excess in the soil weakens the immunity of the plant. But potassium and phosphorus in the right doses, on the contrary, strengthen it. It is not recommended to use fresh manure as top dressing. It is an ideal breeding ground for the larvae and eggs of most pests.
• Proper watering. Strawberry is a rather moisture-loving plant, but waterlogged soil creates conditions for the development of many pathogenic fungi. Therefore, it should be watered only when the topsoil dries out.

Strawberries are grown not only in open ground, but also in a greenhouse. A closed environment where moist, stale air stagnates is very suitable for the development of diseases and pests. If plantings are dense, any problem spreads much faster than in open ground.

To avoid this, the greenhouse must be regularly ventilated. At the end of the growing season, the soil is disinfected by pouring boiling water or a rich pink solution of potassium permanganate. All surfaces are wiped with slaked lime or 5% copper sulphate diluted with water. With the doors tightly closed, they fumigate it with tobacco smoke or burn a piece of sulfur checker. After applying any insecticides, the greenhouse must be well ventilated. It is necessary to choose drugs that decompose in the ground, otherwise there is a real risk of poisoning the soil for a long time.

Growing strawberries is not that difficult. Even a novice gardener can get a harvest. Subject to certain rules and recommendations regarding agricultural technology, the presence of competent prevention, the risk of diseases and pests is minimized. Nevertheless, landings should be regularly inspected for suspicious symptoms. Having found them, you need to correctly identify the problem and know what to do in each case.

Delicious ripe strawberries begin to please the owners of the beds by the end of June. There are nuances in growing berries, and sometimes problems arise, for example, pest attacks. Most often, the attack of insects occurs suddenly, without pronounced signs. It can alert the appearance of inclusions on the berries, and holes appear on the leaves. If the symptoms are not given due importance, the strawberry crop will be completely destroyed, without further recovery.

Most often, strawberries are attacked by aphids, bears, whiteflies, and nematodes. Shoots can become infected with spider mites, weevil, May beetles. In any case, after the detection of pests, they immediately begin to treat the berries.

Strawberry whitefly

A white small insect with wings is a very dangerous pest. The whitefly is easy to distinguish - it looks like a moth, the size of its body is up to 5 millimeters. The insect feeds on the juice of young strawberry shoots. In addition to sucking juices, the whitefly leaves a special liquid on the leaves and stem, which ensures the formation of the fungus. The fungus is difficult to remove from berry bushes. FROM reverse side leaf insect lays eggs, they are noticeable upon close examination. The eggs hatch into larvae that develop into adults.

Of the effective methods of control, treatment with insecticidal substances is used. These include drugs Aktara, Aktellik, Konfidor, Pegasus, Rovikurt. The preparations include active substances that destroy the whitefly and its larvae. The mechanical method of removing pests and removing larvae is also effective. From folk remedies, experienced gardeners offer to wash the bushes with laundry soap. Leave the soap on the plants until completely dry for a couple of hours, and then wash off with water along with insects.

Important! Sprinkling bushes sometimes helps. Under the pressure of water, some of the eggs, larvae and adult insects are washed away with the jet.

Raspberry strawberry weevil

The weevil can destroy most of the crop, up to 90% of strawberries. The body of the weevil is oval in shape, with small antennae on the head. The beetle is quite large, its length is 2-3 centimeters. Larva white color but turns brown with age. The weevil overwinters well in the ground and on leaves. Activation takes place in the spring. The peak of the formation of beetles falls on the time of strawberry flowering. Beetles feed on pollen, and females lay their eggs in flowers. The bud subsequently quickly dies and falls to the ground. When the caterpillars appear, the berry is already ripening. Caterpillars poison the fruits and make them unsuitable for further consumption.

Folk remedies will help get rid of the weevil. This is a tincture of spicy capsicum, laundry soap. You can irrigate the bushes with onion broth with celandine. The pungent smell repels the weevil. Nasturtium, marigolds and marigolds are planted near strawberries. These flowers have a detrimental effect on beetles. The use of insecticides positive result, the weevil quickly disappears.

Medvedka

Medvedka is met quite often, it belongs to the typical inhabitants of even fertile fields, as well as in places where weeds accumulate. The brown shell reaches 6 centimeters in length. The bear has a pair of teeth with which it digs the soil. Medvedka lives and winters in the depths of the earth. When the heat comes, in the spring, the bear comes out of the ground and destroys the root system. As a result, strawberries wither and die. Medvedka breeds rapidly: one female is able to lay 500 eggs. the larvae feed on green mass, devouring it on a large scale.

To destroy the bear on strawberries, the active substances Hinofur, Marshall, Zolon are used. The Force supplement helps a lot. Digging up the soil will be an effective pest control measure.

strawberry mite

An inconspicuous, but very dangerous pest lives on strawberry leaves. It has a brown color and a microscopic size - 2 millimeters.

The tick feeds on strawberry juice, it sucks it out of the shoots, as a result of which the bush dries up. Ticks are especially active in the second half of summer. High humidity aggravates the removal of the insect, since it is a favorable environment.

From effective drugs used in the fight against strawberry mite Karbofos and Keltan. The preparations are applied evenly on strawberry leaves. Severely affected shoots are pruned and destroyed by burning them.

spider mite

A distinctive feature of the spider mite is the appearance of a barely noticeable cobweb on the strawberry bushes. These mites are larger than strawberry mites, their size is up to 5 millimeters. The body has a light color, in good light they can be seen on the green berry leaves. The tick is especially dangerous for the berry - it irrevocably spoils it. Strawberries affected by the mite are not suitable for further use.

In the fight against spider mites, only pruning of damaged fruits and shoots helps, as well as treatment with Actellik, Omite, Flumite, Sunmite and other acaricides.

Aphid

Small white insects become almost invisible, if not for their color. On green strawberry leaves, they are visible even to the naked eye. Aphids infect leaves, stem. Over time, the green mass of the plant dries and dies. Aphids reproduce very quickly, easily moving from one plant to another. In a few days, aphids can ruin the entire berry crop.

Pest control begins with the use of drugs Iskra, Karbofos, Fas, Aktellik. They give a quick effect, aphids disappear completely in a few days. The compounds included in the composition cause paralysis in the insect, it dies in 2-3 days. Watering and irrigation of strawberries with garlic or onion broth perfectly repels aphids with a pungent odor.

Slugs

At high humidity and in warm climates, strawberries are attacked by slugs. The pest survives the winter in the ground, in the spring it comes to the surface. Ripe berries become the main object of attack of slugs. The pest gnaws large holes in the pulp. Slugs also infect strawberry leaves. During the day, the pest rarely comes to the surface of the earth, the main time for the attack is twilight and night.

If possible, slugs are removed by hand, and also treated with Slimaks. The additive is aimed specifically at the destruction of slugs and gives a high result. During the treatment of berries, the humidity must be reduced, and watering should be refrained for a while. The earth must be completely dry.

Thrips tobacco

An insect of yellow or brown color, which is almost impossible to notice due to its small size. Its value is 1 millimeter, no more. The habitat of thrips is weeds, the remains of tops, plants. Thrips successfully lives and winters in the ground. The larva grows quickly - the period of its full maturation to an adult takes 2 weeks. Thrips affect the stem and leaves of the plant, make small inclusions in them.

Spray infected shoots with a tobacco solution, as well as tincture of onions or garlic. Helps in the fight against thrips insecticidal drugs that cause paralysis and further death.

Chafer

A large beetle up to 3 centimeters long with brown elytra is called May. It has been active since the beginning of April. The beetle feeds on humus, as well as the root system. Then the beetle moves to the green leaves and destroys them all. Eggs are laid in the ground at a depth of 20 centimeters. The larvae mature in the soil for a long time; at least 50 days must pass for full maturation. The beetle lives and hibernates in the ground. Insect larvae are easily recognizable: they are large - 6 centimeters each.

Medicinal supplements Zolon, Marshall, Aktar, Bazudin help against May beetles. The soil can be cultivated with Force, Aktar. Any insecticide will help get rid of annoying insects. Beetles will quickly and easily leave the site if treatment is started as early as possible.

Bronzovka Shaggy

The bronze is small in size, its size is 12-14 millimeters. The insect feeds on buds and flowers, and then switches to berries. Able to destroy the entire crop in a matter of days. Lives in the ground and on leaves. The insect does not touch the roots.

The beetle is clearly visible on green strawberry leaves, it is harvested by hand and then burned. Use hexachloran, they water the soil. At night, bronze goes into the ground, so the soil must be well processed. The shoots themselves are irrigated with aqueous solutions of insecticides.

strawberry leaf beetle

A rather small and inconspicuous bug appears on the leaves in spring. Body length - 4-5 millimeters. Signs of strawberry leaf beetle lesions are:

• the appearance on the leaves of many small holes;
• crushing berries;
• excessive drying of the bushes;
• deterioration in the taste of fruits.

The leaf beetle reproduces rapidly. In one clutch, the female can lay up to 200 eggs. The larvae gnaw out the leaf pulp. After 3-4 weeks, the larva turns into an adult leaf beetle. For wintering, the insect goes into the ground.

After the detection of pests, the earth is dug up or loosened. Spraying bushes with Karbofos or tobacco infusion helps well.

strawberry nematode

From the nematode, any insecticides that contain phosphamide, mercaptophos help. For the extermination of pests, Skor, Fundazol, Fitoverm are used.

Attention! All preparations intended for the destruction of pests are diluted according to the instructions.

Below is a video showing effective ways control of strawberry pests, as well as showing varieties of insects that can attack the crop. When using these recipes, the crop will be saved, and the pests will leave the summer cottage forever.

Pest prevention

Timely prevention from pests will bring one step closer to obtaining a quality crop. In the fight against insects, it is very important to notice the problem that has appeared in time and begin to act immediately. In this case, the strawberries will be completely saved.

Strawberry leaf disease in the photo

In years with cool damp weather, strawberry plants suffer more from damage to the foliage of various kinds of fungal infections.

What strawberry diseases can develop: in the specialized scientific literature there are at least one and a half dozen of them. A common feature for all these diseases is the appearance on the old leaves of strawberries, located on the periphery of the bush, of various colors of small spots of white, purple or brown. Under adverse weather conditions in the form of cool damp weather, the number of such spots on the leaves and their size increase rapidly, as a result of which the leaves begin to die prematurely. These diseases are not as dangerous as gray rot, but with a strong development due to the weakening of plants, they can cause a decrease in yield in the next season by 25-30%.

Look at the diseases of strawberries and the fight against them in the photo, which illustrates the main signs and methods of processing plants:

Powdery mildew on strawberries (photo)
Gray rot of strawberries in the photo

Rarely - as a rule, only in very wet and rainy weather in conditions open ground, strawberries are affected by powdery mildew. Fluffy appears on the underside of the leaf blade white coating. With these diseases of strawberries and the fight against them, the leaf is deformed, subsequently darkens and dies.

See what strawberry fungal diseases look like and how to fight them in the photo, demonstrating the devastating consequences:

Common to all fungal infections that affect strawberry leaves is that they initially enter the site along with planting material (with the exception of the causative agent of gray rot, which lives everywhere), overwinter on dying plant debris, and their rapid development is facilitated by a warm and humid microclimate, formed inside the landings. For this reason, the greatest yield losses occur in damp areas and heavily dense plantations.

Look at strawberry diseases in pictures, where you can see clear symptoms:

Diseases of strawberries in the picture

Preventive protection of strawberries and strawberries from diseases

For the preventive protection of strawberries from diseases of this kind, the most important method is to create and maintain an optimal microclimate and a minimal infectious background. As long-term practice shows, the appearance and rapid development of spots occurs, as a rule, on very old plantings, which are more than 4 years old. Therefore, for a gardener, a strong spread of leaf spots is, first of all, a signal not to the beginning of chemical treatment, but a reminder of the need to replace and rejuvenate plants.

Information about strawberry diseases and their treatment in pictures offered on this page will help you avoid troubles in your garden.

The basis for the prevention and protection of strawberries from diseases is the acquisition of healthy seedlings of modern resistant varieties. Equally important is the choice of a sunny, well-ventilated area for planting strawberries and determining the correct planting pattern. Densely leafy varieties that form a large number of mustaches during the season are planted at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other. For low-leaved and small mustache varieties, this distance is at least 20 cm.

In this case, garden strawberry diseases and their treatment, as in the photo, will bypass the site:

Remember to regularly remove old dead leaves and thickening excess whiskers. The correct and moderate use of mineral nitrogen fertilizers is very important. They contribute rapid growth leaf mass and whiskers. Plant tissues are looser and watered with large pores through which fungal spores easily penetrate inside, causing disease. Fungal infections that affect strawberry leaves are practically not found in garden plots, where foliar spraying of leaves with solutions of trace elements and humate is regularly carried out.

You also need to know how to spray strawberries for diseases and what special solutions can be used for this. Of the measures for the active protection of plants from fungal diseases, it is recommended to remove and burn heavily affected leaves and spray with universal fungicides (1-2% solution of Bordeaux mixture, topaz, topsin).

You can often hear complaints from our gardeners that from year to year they try new varieties, new fertilizers, and new agricultural techniques on their strawberry plantations, but there is no harvest. Plants grow weakly, although they do not die completely. It also happens when a well-growing and fruit-bearing strawberry plantation, after replanting new plants, began to degenerate and bear fruit poorly. It is quite possible that the reasons for this are the defeat of strawberry plants by very dangerous and insidious diseases and pests, which are classified as quarantine.

For the culture of garden strawberries, this is:

Nematodes (strawberry and stem)

strawberry mite.

Timely processing of strawberries from diseases of this type is the key to a rich harvest of beautiful even berries.

Look at these strawberry diseases in the photo and their treatment can begin after an accurate diagnosis is made:

See how strawberries are processed in the spring from diseases in the video, which shows all the activities:

In countries with a high level of nursery culture, amateur gardeners rarely encounter such problems. Large nurseries generally do not allow infected plants to enter the market. It is not surprising, therefore, that even in translations of plant protection publications for amateurs, this section is often missing. In our country, where the practice of acquiring planting material from hands and from little-known suppliers is still very common, the probability of these dangerous objects entering the site is quite high. It is better for our amateurs to have the necessary minimum knowledge about quarantine pests and diseases in order to further minimize the risk of unpleasant acquaintance with them on their site. Summer - best time to inspect plantings for the presence of such pests and diseases.

Be sure to study in advance the diseases of strawberries in the photo and, when the first signs appear, take effective measures:

Diseases of garden strawberries in the photo

On an industrial scale, to lay plantings with planting material that is free from quarantine diseases and pests, an expensive cellular PCR analysis is carried out in the laboratory. To improve the health of plants, an extremely laborious and expensive procedure of thermotherapy and micropropagation is also carried out. It is very important to know the diseases of strawberries and their treatment in order to carry out preventive measures.

Unfortunately, on the scale of a summer cottage, there is no remedy for strawberry disease and saving plants from quarantine objects. At the first detection of such symptoms or even the suspicion of the appearance of such pests and diseases, it is better to play it safe and immediately get rid of "suspicious plants". In no case should you take a mustache from them for further reproduction.

The only reliable way to avoid meeting these very dangerous and insidious objects on your site is to purchase certified planting material from reliable suppliers, maintain regular crop rotation and a high culture of strawberry cultivation - the absence of weeds and sucking insects on plantings.

To improve the soil from nematodes in the garden plot - the introduction of "local quarantine" and the cultivation of green manure crops - mustard, nasturtium and tagetis for 2-3 years on this site as a strawberry precursor.

Currently, manufacturers annually offer remedies to treat strawberries from diseases and similar pests - they are made on the basis of strong poisons and therefore can be dangerous to human health. Be careful.

Strawberry and stem nematodes in the photo

Strawberry and stem nematodes- whitish-transparent microscopic worms that live inside the root and conductive systems of a plant and feed on their juices. Due to their microscopic size (no more than 0.015 mm), it is impossible to see them with the naked eye. In addition to strawberries, nematodes also infect other cultivated and weed plants from many families. They get to the site with planting material - infected mustaches, cuttings, shoots, bulbs. Actively multiplying in the warm season, they begin to strongly inhibit the plants.

The defeat by nematodes is initially focal in nature. A group of plants growing nearby begins to lag behind in growth, forming distorted leaves of a changed color. Individuals of the strawberry nematode live mainly inside peduncles and buds, causing their deformation, shortening and thickening. The buds become small and underdeveloped, or vice versa disproportionately long and thin. The bushes become like cauliflower, the berries are not tied.

Strawberry plants damaged by stem nematodes have twisted wrinkled leaves, peduncles and petioles thickened with swellings. Plants lag behind in growth. Petioles and whiskers turn red.

Strawberry leaves affected by a tick in the photo

strawberry mite- a microscopic transparent insect, like nematodes, feeds on plant sap. Ticks live inside the central bud - the heart, sucking juices from the youngest unblown strawberry leaves. Affected plants begin to be severely stunted, become dwarfed, young leaves unfold severely deformed and have a yellow oily tint.

Viral and mycoplasmal diseases of strawberries and treatment are discussed later in the material. The group of quarantine diseases includes viral infections, of which there are at least 19 in the scientific literature, and 4 types of mycoplasmas. According to world statistics, at the initial stage of infection, they cause a decrease in plant yield by 20-40%. In the future, the affected plants completely lose their ability to normal growth and fruiting.

look viral diseases strawberries in the photo, which shows the most important symptoms and signs:

One of the biggest challenges in dealing with these diseases is the complexity of the initial diagnosis. Some viruses infect not only strawberry plants, but also other crops and weeds, and they can get on strawberries with cell sap carried by sucking pests. Viruses and mycoplasmas penetrate the cells and change the very cellular structure of plants. external symptoms lesions in the initial stages are insignificant and disguised as various kinds of physiological disorders or lack of nutrients.

Just like quarantine pests, most often viral and mycoplasmal infections initially enter the site with infected seedlings. However, in the future they can spread very quickly on plantings along with sucking insects (aphids and mites) that feed on cell sap, or together with cutting tools (for example, on pruner blades when trimming mustaches).

Common signs of damage to strawberry plants by viruses and mycoplasmas are growth retardation and a change in the color and shape of the leaves. The leaves begin to acquire a yellowish or even whitish color, mottling and mosaic. The leaf segments do not open along the main vein or, on the contrary, strongly bend down. Leaf petioles are either disproportionately short, so that the bush looks flattened on the ground, or vice versa, the petioles are very long and elongated, the bush forms a large number of thin long mustache. Colloquially, such plants are called "witch's brooms" or erroneously "male non-fruiting strawberries." The defeat by mycoplasma can be expressed in the greening and growth of strawberry flower petals, such flowers of berries are no longer tied.

In the second half of summer, when warm, humid weather sets in, strawberries may show signs of damage by such dangerous fungal infections, which are collectively called “wilt diseases” or “root rots” in the scientific literature.

In horticulture, if strawberry leaf diseases develop, crop losses current year can be up to 50%. In some years, with unfavorable weather conditions and errors in agricultural technology, they can cause complete death.

Look at strawberry diseases in the photo, where a cross section of a plant with varying degrees of damage to root rot:

On the right - the initial stage, on the left - the final landing. But still, compared with viral and mycoplasmal diseases of strawberries and their treatment, it is much easier to diagnose them. Thanks to modern achievements in chemical science, there are drugs that can prophylactically protect against such pathogens and even cure strawberry leaf disease completely, save diseased plants. In addition, and thanks to the work of breeders, there are varieties that are relatively resistant to root rot.

Let us dwell on the key points in the diagnosis and protection of plants from this group of diseases.

Most often found in garden plots:

Verticillium wilt in the photo

Verticillium

Fusarium wilt in the photo

Fusarium

late blight wilt

Common to all these strawberry leaf diseases is that they are caused by soil fungal microorganisms.

Initially, pathogens of these diseases with infected planting material enter the sites. When planting outwardly healthy seedlings, even she without visible reasons may die within 1 month. A certain amount of pathogenic fungi is present in most garden plots - the so-called natural infectious background. In this case, tangible damage or mass death of plants occurs only when planting unstable varieties or unfavorable combination of weather conditions and errors in agricultural technology.

Through micro-wounds on the roots or enlarged pores, fungi-pathogens penetrate into the conducting system of plants, where they feed on juices and actively multiply. In the root and conducting system of plants, the mycelium of the fungus develops a kind of plaques and plugs, which primarily impede the movement of water and nutrients through the vascular system.

The first signs of plant damage are stunting and wilting of the lower leaves on hot sunny days, even with good soil moisture. Further, you can observe a change in the color of the leaves and petioles. The leaves become lighter with a yellowish tint - chlorosis, and the petioles may acquire a reddish tint. Conducting chemical treatments at this initial stage can stop the development of the disease and save the plants.

Provoke the appearance of "root rot" not only periods of excessive moisture during high temperature or drought, namely sudden changes in soil moisture. This leads to the formation of microcracks on the roots, through which the infection penetrates. Also, these diseases develop more strongly on long-term waterlogged soils, where the root system of plants is weakened and experiences a constant oxygen deficiency.

In areas where strawberries or crops that are also strongly susceptible to damage by verticile and fusarium (asters, tomatoes, potatoes, clematis, beets) have been grown for a long time and permanently, the pathogenic background is much higher than the natural background of infection. When planting even absolutely healthy planting material on them, the death of plants can be more than 30%.

View these strawberry diseases with photos and explore the possibilities timely treatment, including chemicals

How to treat and fight strawberry diseases

The best way to deal with strawberry diseases in your area is to purchase healthy strawberry planting stock and grow resistant varieties. Of the remontants, this variety can be called Queen Elizabeth 2, and from the group of ordinary varieties, Zenga Zengana and Red Gauntlet, Honey, Torpeda, Tsarskoselskaya are considered the most stable.

Before planting, it is recommended that the root system of seedlings be dipped in a solution of humate or that the holes be shed before planting with Maxim's solution or a 0.2% solution of foundationol. These are the basic solutions of how to treat strawberries for diseases common in limited areas.

Of the preventive agrotechnical measures, the best are the choice for planting strawberries in areas with an optimal water-air regime and regular crop rotation with the right predecessors.

It is important not to forget about the regular mulching of the soil under the bushes with a layer of organic matter. It helps to maintain an optimal water-air regime and the growth of new suction roots.

The drug "Fundazol" in the photo
Processing strawberries in the photo

Solutions of drugs - Maxim or Fundazol - you can spill the plants of the most valuable and favorite varieties at the initial stage of the lesion. However, the most reliable way is the complete removal of affected plants from the site and disinfection of the seat.

In the future, it is recommended to plant strawberries in this area no earlier than after 3 years, during which green manure crops are grown on it to improve the soil - tagetis, calendula, phacelia, mustard

The strawberry diseases presented in the video will allow you to get an accurate idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthem and the means to combat them:

They can significantly reduce the amount of the crop, and sometimes completely destroy it. Therefore, it is important to replace the pest in time and start fighting it.

But how to recognize a dangerous insect that can destroy dozens of strawberry bushes? Let's find out.

Strawberry pests - description with photos

Aleurodide

The tiny whitefly butterfly, only 1.5 mm in size, is one of the main enemies of not only strawberries, but also strawberries. An unremarkable creature settles at the bottom of a leaf and methodically sucks the juice out of it, and a little later lays eggs.

The larvae also feed on the juice of the leaves and after 20-25 days turn into an adult. In one season, the whitefly can grow up to six generations. The larvae that did not have time to grow remain to winter either on the bush or in the grass, and in the spring they continue to eat strawberries. Untimely treatment will lead to the death of the crop.

In addition to the whiteflies themselves, you can notice their presence by the following signs:

• Pollen appears on strawberries, similar to powdered sugar;
• Leaves begin to curl or appear yellow spots;
• Soon a fungal infection occurs.

The methods of dealing with aleurodide are as follows: spraying with the drug Nurell or "Karate" every seven days before and after flowering. As preventive measures - planting bushes in a sunny place, weeding, and removing old leaves by burning.

Shaggy bronze

A small black beetle, the body of which is covered with many small hairs and randomly scattered white spots. It feeds on leaves and peduncles, lays eggs in the ground. Hatching, the larvae of the bronze eat the roots and humus, which is why the strawberries deteriorate doubly. For the winter, bugs also hide in the ground, so the main preventive measure is digging the ground.

Since the main habitat of the bronze is the soil, it is not so easy to deal with it. Not many drugs can penetrate deep into the earth and destroy the insect. One of these drugs is "Calypso".

As you can see, there are a number of strawberry pests that are active during flowering, but continue to feed on the seedling after the end. Therefore, it is important to treat the site in the spring, before the start of the season.

leaf beetle

A small light brown beetle that eats strawberry leaves. The pest does not just eat the leaf, but makes many holes on it, turning it into a sieve. Lays eggs at the bottom of the leaf, but sometimes on the stem. Two weeks after laying, the larvae begin to actively develop and eat the leaf until they turn into a full-fledged individual. The formed leaf beetles start the circle anew.

With the onset of cold weather, the beetles burrow into the ground, hiding from the cold with fallen leaves. That is why it is important to clean up and burn them away from the site in a timely manner. The main signs that the bugs have settled on the site are a lot of holes on the leaf, small berries and dried bushes.

It is not easy to fight this pest, in most cases due to the rapid growth of the insect colony. But if you start processing the plantation before the bushes bloom, pests can be bypassed. In this regard, drugs have shown themselves well - "Metaphos", Nurell D, Karbofos and "Ambush".

Nematode

A dangerous pest capable of destroying half the crop. Outwardly, it is a small worm that lives in the leafy sinuses. With its appearance, the plant slows down growth, the leaves become dark and deformed. As a result, the bush ceases to bear fruit and has to be removed.

The danger of these pests is that worms can live in the ground for decades and one treatment may not be enough for complete destruction. How to treat strawberries from pests in this case? Methyl bromide, which has been used for a very long time, is considered the main drug in the fight against nematodes. But there are analogues that are more gentle for the earth itself and seedlings, for example, "Fitoverm".

leafy weevil

A bright green beetle with long whiskers that lives on strawberries throughout the entire period. Negatively affects the yield and fruiting of bushes.

The main symptoms, in addition to the presence of the beetle itself, are as follows:

• Leaves gnawed along the edges;
• Damaged root system;
• Decrease or complete absence harvest.

It is necessary to fight the beetle, as well as its larvae, from the beginning of the season with the help of Nurell D and Karate preparations. If you miss this moment, then somewhere in the middle of summer the larvae will begin to eat the roots, and many bushes cannot be saved.

Chafer

In this case, the danger is not the beetle itself, but its larvae. The fact is that having flown enough, the female Maybug is looking for a place to lay eggs, and most often her choice falls on strawberry plantations. There, burrowing deep into the ground, she lays her eggs, and a month later the larvae appear. First, they feed on humus, and then on the roots of plants. After 4 years, a beetle is born.

Until recently, they fought with the May beetle in the “old-fashioned way”, that is, we dig out the larvae and pick them out of the soil. But this does not give a special effect, since it is unlikely to choose absolutely everything. It is best to use the preparations "Sharpei", "Nurell D" and "Karate" or substances for drip spraying - "Aktara", "Marshal", "Bazudin".

Ticks

Spider and strawberry mites are frequent guests in areas where strawberries or strawberries grow. Both of these species feed on the sap of the leaves, causing them to curl, dry, and then fall off. Spider mite appears due to lack of moisture, and strawberry through infected seedlings, so be careful where you buy young bushes.

You can fight these insects with the help of the drug "Phosphomid" or "Metaphos". Ticks also die if the bushes are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate at a temperature of 60 degrees.

Treatment

Since the treatment of strawberries from pests occurs mainly with the help of chemicals, try to adhere to the basic safety rules: work with gloves, do not spray drugs in the wind and wear goggles so that chemicals do not get into your eyes.

For information on which strawberry pests are the most common and how to deal with them, see this video.