Ground cover roses preparing for winter. How to care for ground cover roses? Climatic features of Ukraine

True admirers of the queen of flowers grow several of its species. Each species is individual and differs in frost resistance.

• The most persistent are park varieties that require minimal shelter.
• The average winter hardiness includes miniature roses and floribundas.
• Tea and climbing species are most sensitive to frost. They require more thorough insulation and shelter from wind, cold and precipitation.

How to cover a spray rose for the winter

The spray rose must be cut off and sprinkled with a layer of 30 cm prepared in advance. In this case, all the space between the shoots must be filled.

Be sure to make sure that the vaccine is covered, it should be hidden under a seven-centimeter layer. For wintering bushes in the southern regions, this will be enough; in cooler areas, cover with spruce branches, non-woven material or air-dry.

And you can also make a frame with ventilation. The bush is spudded, and then completely covered with dry leaves so that the branches are not visible. Then the resulting hill is fixed with a metal mesh, cardboard boxes or rods. The structure is covered with polyethylene and the ends are fixed with stones.

How to cover hybrid tea roses for the winter

One of the tender and "freezing" species, which does not tolerate frost and spring thaws. Therefore, they must be cut, prepared for the winter, and the best method of protection would be an air-dry shelter. It provides ventilation and maintains a constant temperature.

The frame is made of metal and wooden rods and encloses the bush in the form of a cone. The material is stretched from above and its ends are dug in with soil.

How to cover a standard rose for the winter

Standard roses cover before other species. In September, they are untied from the support, the flowers should bend over and get used to this position.

After a few weeks, the trunk should be bent to the ground. To do this, carefully swinging the top of the bush, gradually tilt it to the ground. It is necessary to act carefully so that the stem does not break. Some are left for several days and accustomed to an inclined position. As soon as the plant has taken the necessary position, it is pinned to the ground with a twig.

Next, pruning is carried out, the foliage is removed and the plant is treated with copper sulphate and proceed to the main shelter. So that the trunk is not damaged under the weight of snow, slip under the vaccination site plastic bottle or a piece of styrofoam.

The graft is covered with earth, and dry foliage is applied on top. From above, everything is covered with synthetic material, fixing it.

If you are afraid of damaging the trunk, then you can do without bending down. To do this, take a bag without a bottom, put it on the crown and stuff it with dry foliage and spruce branches. They tie it on top, and the trunk is tied with burlap and insulation.

The rose in the northwestern part of Russia is a problematic plant, as it survives rather than lives in this region. The reason for this is winter thaws, not harsh winters.

Roses should be covered for the winter in almost all regions. It is especially easy to do this in regions with a continental climate: persistent cold has come, roses have covered and no problems.

It is more difficult to care for roses in the northwest, because the onset of cold weather occurs late, and a very severe frost can strike when there is still no snow at all, which undoubtedly leads to the death of roses. Previously, they also cannot be covered, because in prolonged warm weather, roses can dry out. In addition, the positive temperature can suddenly come in the middle of winter.

Roses need dry shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a Floribunda rose

Floribunda roses (they are relatively short, bloom in a bouquet and have not too large flowers) need to be pruned before sheltering for the winter. You need to cut it so that the height of the remaining stem is 25 - 30 cm. The stem must be heaped with peat or sand, and in the end it should be almost completely closed.

Shelter for the winter roses of the species Chino

Roses of the Tea-hybrid or Grandiflora species (they are taller and have single-blooming large flowers) need to be cut by 40 cm, while spudding also by 25-30 cm. All flowers, leaves, buds must be cut off and any boxes placed above the bushes, which must be covered with cling film. This film will protect roses from autumn rains.

The film should not reach the ground, otherwise the roses will suffocate. But the film also should not fly away, so fix it (for example, put a stone on top). Such a shelter can be made in the fall at any time, but when the frost hits, immediately throw spruce branches to the very ground. Lapnik is needed to hold snow in winter. Under such shelter, your roses will winter well.

To avoid warming roses in the spring, remove the spruce branches when the sun begins to warm. Film and boxes should be removed when the threat of severe frost has completely passed. And only at this moment you can unravel the roses.

Keep in mind that adult bushes, unlike young shoots, are able to endure autumn frosts up to - 4 ... - 5 ° C and continue their flowering, so do not rush to cover them very early.

Shelter for the winter of climbing, spray and climbing roses

How to care for roses if your area has climbing, spray or even climbing roses. In this case, you first need to stop their further growth in the fall. To do this, shorten the whips by 12 - 15 cm, then lay a film under the bushes and bend down all the shoots. A film under the bushes is needed to isolate the roses from excess dampness that will come from the soil. Before bending the shoots, they must first be freed from buds, foliage and flowers.

When you bend down the shoots, you need to cover them with foliage or dry hay from above, or, in extreme cases, you can use lutrasil. To prevent the shelter from getting wet, cover it with a film to the ground. Be sure to secure the film so that the wind does not blow it away. Lapnik for such a shelter is not required. In the spring, you first need to remove the film, then hay and film from the ground, and tie the whips to the supports.

Shelter for the winter of polyanthus and ground cover roses

Polyanthus and ground cover roses usually do not need to be cut or covered. Instead, they only need to be piled up with sand or peat, which in the spring needs to be raked away from the plant again. And you can even put a little spruce branches to hold the snow.

Rose hips are stronger than roses

In the northwest, it is best to plant terry rose hips instead of roses, which are also called park roses. They smell wonderful, they do not need to be covered, they are not damaged by anyone and do not get sick, and they bloom almost all summer. All this is achieved with good care, which consists in regular cutting of old, drying stems and small organic top dressing in early summer. Moreover, the stems must be cut to the very soil. And don't leave stumps!

How to distinguish a rose from a wild rose

To distinguish a rose from a wild rose, it is enough to pay attention to the young shoots. Rose hips are green, and roses are red (they turn green when they grow up). For all wild roses and roses, oily, black clays are preferred. In their absence, you can mix well-rotted compost (or better manure) in half with the clay that you have.

Never apply only fresh manure for planting roses.

Place to plant roses

It is best to plant roses so that the eastern sun falls on them, that is, the morning sun, but at noon, so that they are under openwork penumbra. As a result, they will not quickly fade and fade. Roses in the shade bloom very poorly, so it is better to have midday sun over them than partial shade.

Transplanting and feeding roses

It is worth noting that even during flowering, transplanting roses is not terrible, they endure it at any time. In dry times, roses need watering on the soil. During budding, roses need to be fed with fresh manure (1:10), and at the end of summer with superphosphate and potassium without chlorine (1 tablespoon of each fertilizer per 10 liters of water). Instead of such a mineral supplement, you can use AVA fertilizer, and you need to make it 1 time in 3 years. To do this, it is enough to add 1 teaspoon of this wonderful fertilizer under a small bush, and 1 tablespoon (without top) under a large bush. Fertilizer should be planted around the bush to a shallow depth.

Rose pests

Aphids are pests of roses. The simplest and most environmentally friendly means to combat it is the Healthy Garden preparation. 2 grains are enough for 1 liter of water. Instead, you can also use "Fitoverm" (1 ml of the drug per 3 liters of water).

If powdery mildew or rust appears on the leaves, then use Zircon (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water). If black spots or a border appear on the leaves, then the plant needs to be fed with potassium without chlorine (sulphate or carbon dioxide). But it is much better to give foliar top dressing with the Uniflor - Bud preparation (1 teaspoon is enough for 3 liters of water). In the absence of these drugs, that is, in the most extreme case, you can spray with a pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate)

The oldest rose in the world lives in Germany - a 1000-year-old bush near the cathedral in Hildesheim, which has already almost reached the roof of this building.

rose culture in open ground
1989

The article is intended for lecturers and amateur gardeners.

It is known that wild rose species grow mainly in the temperate zone of the northern hemisphere. Although the species living in this vast area differ significantly in their characteristics depending on climate, humidity, soil, they all have common property- can not stand either too low or too high temperatures.

The most frost-resistant species grow in the north with an average temperature in July not lower than 10 ° C, in the south with an average temperature in July not higher than 30 ° C. All of Europe, North Africa, almost all of Asia, part of North America, in particular the USA, are located within these isotherms. and southern Canada.

The Leningrad region is located in a climatic zone favorable for roses, the July isotherm is 16-17 °, therefore, the cultivation of roses is possible here.

However, the most ornamental varieties, whose properties are maximally manifested within the boundaries of the 25-30 ° isotherm, experience a lack of heat in our climate and grow better in protected ground.

Different types and varieties of roses vary greatly in winter hardiness. Wild species and their varieties (park roses) withstand frosts of -25 ° and below -50 °, cultivated roses 10 ... -15 °. From

it follows that for park roses they are not required in our shelter zone for the winter, but for cultivated ones, especially for hybrid tea, they are necessary.

When growing roses in open ground, the amount of precipitation plays a significant role. For the normal development of bushes, 700-800 mm of precipitation per year is needed.

In the Leningrad region, the total amount of precipitation on average for the territory is 600 mm per year. In some years, their number fluctuates significantly, the annual amount of precipitation varies within a fairly wide range - from 400 to 900 mm. From this it follows that the humidity regime in our area is generally favorable for roses. However, in some years and months, there are no favorable conditions when roses should be watered.

Illumination is also an important factor in the cultivation of roses in the ground. In this regard, there is a consensus - roses grow best in open sunny areas. In the shade, under the canopy of trees, rose bushes develop poorly, bloom later, in very dark areas they may not bloom at all. For early and abundant flowering, it is best to choose southern well-lit areas protected from the wind.

In general, it can be argued that roses grow well on all lands, with the exception of marshy ones, provided that the soil is carefully prepared. Humus, sand, peat must first be added to clay soil to give looseness in autumn, and sod-clay, humus, peat should be added to sandy soil. The most important role is played by humus and other organic fertilizers.

The main condition for the suitability of soil for roses is its moisture content, which depends on the level of groundwater. It is impossible to plant roses on soils that are excessively wet, damp, swampy, with a high level of groundwater, since the wood of the bushes in these areas does not mature enough, massive plant falls are observed in winter, in addition, when moisture stagnates, leaves are more often affected by fungal diseases. It is recommended that ground waters lie at a depth of at least 75-100 cm.

When preparing a site for roses, several holes should be dug 15-18 cm deep, 40 cm in diameter and filled to the brim with water. If the water seeps quickly and the next day the soil in the hole is not viscous, it is not necessary to arrange artificial drainage. Otherwise, drainage is necessary, which would ensure good drainage of the site.

It is impossible not to take into account the acidity of the soil for roses, the optimal degree of which is pH 5.8-6.5. Our lands tend to be more or less acidic and require alkalization. The simplest method of alkalization is liming.

If the soils are alkaline (pH>7), their reaction should be changed.

The simplest measure is the application of manure, which is physiologically acidic, or abundant doses of peat; Peat with pH 4-5 gives the best result.

When growing roses, one can often observe the "fatigue" of the soil. This phenomenon, as a rule, occurs on soils where roses are grown for a number of years without alternating with other crops. In these areas, despite diligent cultivation, abundant fertilizer, the growth of roses is delayed and the bushes develop poorly.

The reasons for this phenomenon have not yet been precisely established - whether roses are released into the soil in the process of life. chemical substances, which inhibit the development of plants, whether this is due to the appearance a large number nematodes that infect the root system.

As a result of the experiments, it was found that already one-year cultivation of marigolds (Tagetes) eliminates nematodes and makes the soil complete. The active principle in this process is supposedly the excretion of marigolds by the root system, which are extremely harmful to nematodes (repressive, i.e. repellent or toxic).

A sure way to combat the "fatigue" of the soil is to change the area under the rose culture at least every 10 years.

Legumes are a good precursor for roses.

Roses require a higher level of nutrition compared to, for example, field crops. If field crops require phosphorus 12 mg / 100 g of soil, potassium - 22, then roses - phosphorus 60-80, potassium - 80-100 mg / 100 g of soil, i.e. 5-8 times more. A high supply of soil with macro- and microelements is especially necessary when cultivating cut roses, as well as when cultivating varieties that require annual heavy pruning of bushes.

The extensive genus of roses includes 400 species, more than 1000 subspecies, forms and about 25 thousand varieties obtained as a result of a lot of work on introduction, hybridization, selection and cultivation.

The whole history of rose culture, especially the last 200 years, shows that the most powerful factor in the creation of new forms and varieties has been hybridization.

About 85% of the modern assortment are hybrids, the rest are obtained from mutant forms.

At present, garden roses are so complex in origin that it is very difficult (often impossible) to judge their species. Thousands of garden roses have been created over many centuries.

Historical data on the introduction of roses into various countries indicate that the primary centers of rose growth are Asia Minor, East Asia (China, India), the Far East, and southern Japan.

In Asia Minor was the center of origin of the group of Gallic roses (including Gallic, centifolian and Damascus), with which man has long carried out selection work. Folk selection selected deciduous varieties with densely double cup-shaped flowers, blooming profusely in the first half of summer, with a relatively weak rooting ability and high frost resistance.

Roses from Asia Minor before our era began to spread through the islands of the Aegean Sea to Macedonia and Greece, from there to Rome, Egypt, then to Europe, where nondescript local wild roses with small non-double flowers grew at that time. Gallic roses dominated Europe until the beginning of the 19th century - until the introduction of roses into Europe from China.

The introduction of roses to Europe (France, England) from East Asia (Chinese rose, musk rose, giant rose) in the first decade of the 19th century was a powerful impetus for the widespread development of hybridization and breeding of new varieties of roses. East Asian species, as a rule, are evergreen, heat-loving, have a high root-forming ability. Their flowers are not very large double or semi-double on drooping pedicels, in comparison with the Gallic ones, they had a much greater grace and nobility of form, a more delicate original aroma.

Later, other East Asian species (Rose Levigata, Rose Vikhuriana, Rose Banksia) and Far Eastern species (Rugosa rose) were introduced into Europe. In Europe, they began to be bred as park plants, and some were used in hybridization.

Breeding garden varieties in Europe began in the first quarter and especially in the middle of the 19th century. New varieties almost replaced the Gallic roses, which dominated the culture for almost fourteen centuries.

New varieties of garden roses in Europe were bred in the following sequence:

1) noisette, bourbon, tea, portland, noisette-bourbon;

2) remontant, hybrid tea, pernetian, polyanthus;

3) improved hybrid tea, varieties of the floribunda, grandiflora, Kordesa group, climbing, semi-climbing, ground cover, etc.

Garden groups, bred at the first stage, have now lost their independent significance. Today, these groups are presented in collections in small numbers. However, they have been widely used in hybridization work in the development of more advanced modern garden groups.

The whole variety of garden roses is currently subdivided into about 30 garden groups.

The classification is based on the morphological features of the flower (shape, size, doubleness), habitus ( appearance) and the height of the bush, the structure of the leaves, biological features (duration and abundance of flowering, winter hardiness, etc.).

The most famous in ornamental gardening are the following groups:

Repairing (Rem.). The first varieties were obtained in the 40s of the XIX century by distant hybridization. The cold-resistant species of Gallic, Damascus, Portland and Chinese roses from the southeastern regions of India and China served as initial forms.

At present, these varieties have almost lost their importance, with the exception of a few popular ones (Frau Karl Drushki, Mrs. John Laing, etc.).

Tea hybrid (Chg.). The most common group today arose as a result of crossing remontant roses with tea roses.

The first variety of hybrid tea roses La France was obtained in 1867 in France by the orginator Guyot. Today, the assortment is constantly being improved. Such varieties as Gloria Day, Super-Star, Baccarat are widely known. Over the past 20 years, roses have been obtained with new original flower colors. Among them are bluish-lilac and purple (Meinzer Fastnacht, Intermezzo, Silver Star), two-tone "variegated" (Rose Gaujar, Piccadilly, Brazil, Baiazzo Saopenz), black-red (Oklahoma, Papa Meyan), fiery red (Allegro, Orange Delbar), golden yellow and brownish-bronze (Golden Krone, Vnner Charm), pale pink (Royal Hynes, Memoriam, Dr. Flemming).

A wide range of white varieties of hybrid tea roses (Virgo, Pascali, John F. Kennedy, Atena).

Roses are propagated mainly by budding, winter vaccinations, and cuttings.

Polyanthus (Pol.) varieties were obtained in France in the 70s of the 19th century from crossing multi-flowered and Chinese roses. Plants are short (30-50 cm), highly branched, compact, upright. Small (3-4 cm) flowers, mostly terry, located in the same plane in the form of a shield, often without aroma. They bloom profusely and for a long time on the shoots of both the previous one and current year. The main advantages of this group include the extraordinary durability of flowers (they do not fade and retain their brightness for 10-15 days), high resistance to adverse winter conditions, excessive soil moisture, and fungal diseases. Most varieties are pink or red (Orange Triumph), but there are also white, brick yellow (Gloria Mundi), purple (Raymond Priva). Polyanthus roses are widely used in landscaping to create borders, curtains and borders, in closed ground - for forcing in pots. All varieties of polyaite roses are well propagated by cuttings.

Floribunda (Fl.) - a group that originated from crossing hybrid tea roses with polyanthus. Flowers of different doubleness (10-25 petals) are collected in inflorescences smaller in number than polyaite flowers (10-30 flowers each), they are distinguished by bright juicy color and beautiful shape. Some varieties are close to hybrid tea and are widely cultivated for cutting in industrial greenhouses (Sonya, Belinda, Prominent), others with cup-shaped or flat flowers (Masquerade, Edelweiss, Jean Speck, Centerner de Lourdes) are widely used in landscaping.

Grandiflora (Grand) - a relatively new group, obtained by crossing hybrid tea roses and floribunda and occupies an intermediate position between them. Grandiflora differs from tea-hybrid ones in greater power of plants. Well-built large flowers on straight strong stems almost do not differ from hybrid tea, however, in most varieties they are collected in small inflorescences, which brings them closer to the floribunda group. Plants bloom as profusely as floribunda and are more winter hardy than hybrid tea. Many varieties are not damaged by fungal diseases. The most common varieties of this group (Queen Elizabeth, Montezuma, Mount Shasta, Cherry Girl) are used for cutting in protected ground and in landscaping (groups, tapeworms). Propagated by budding, grafting and cuttings.

Miniature (Min.) roses were first brought to Europe from China in 1810. Some authors attribute them to the dwarf form of Bengal roses. These are undersized, almost dwarf bushes (height - 15-25 cm), usually densely branched, closed, sometimes spherical in shape. The shoots are thin, strong with small frequent thorns (sometimes without them), almost completely covered with very beautiful leaves (in most varieties, the leaves have 7 elongated pointed plates). The flowers are very small (diameter 1-3 cm), densely double, in small inflorescences, rarely solitary, often fragrant, of various colors and shapes. The rose blooms profusely and for a long time. Among the best varieties, the most common are Para Tee (white), Little Bakkeru (dark red), Mr. Bluebird (lilac), Rosina (yellow), etc.

Climbing roses differ from the typical shrub plants of other groups, approaching the type of growth and development to the life form of liana-like shrubs.

By modern classification the following groups are distinguished: small-colored climbing or curly and large-colored climbing.

Small-colored climbing or curly (Plt.) - hybrids of Vihurayana roses and multiflora. Their numerous flexible creeping or arcuately ascending shoots develop from adventitious buds at the base of the bush. During one year of vegetation, plants grow intensively in length, almost without branching, reaching 3-5 m. Unlike varieties of other groups, they form flowers only on the shoots of previous years (therefore, the whips must be completely preserved during the winter). Short peduncles (15-40 cm) with large paniculate inflorescences (15-50 flowers each) are formed along the entire length of the lash. Flowering single in; June - July, the flowers are small (diameter 2-3 cm), of various doubleness (5-100 petals), in most varieties without aroma, they are distinguished by extraordinary durability - they retain decorative effect for 15-20 days.

Widespread varieties are red (Excelsa), pink (Dorothy Perkins), purple (Amethyst). Varieties of this group lay flower buds on last year's basal shoots. After flowering, they are cut to the ground, that is, the bushes always consist of 1- and 2-year-old shoots.

Large-flowered climbing (Pl. kr.) roses originated mainly from the crossing of small-flowered climbing with hybrid tea, remontant, floribunda, etc. They differ from the previous group in large flowers, similar in shape and structure to hybrid tea and floribunda roses. They are collected in small loose inflorescences (3-30 pieces each). The bushes of most varieties are low, 1.5-2 m. Many of them (Paul Scarlet Climber, New Dawn) bloom again and are therefore especially popular.

Like small-flowered climbing roses, large-flowered ones are used for vertical gardening, decorating arbors, trellises, pergolas, arches. These roses are very effective in stem culture.

Semi-climbing (Semi-pl.) The name semi-climbing is given conditionally, since along with semi-climbing forms, upright shrubs also enter here. roses specified group different from the typical climbers, but they tend to have strong volumetric growth, and their use in landscaping areas is not specific. Among them there are varieties that bloom once and repeatedly. In particular, this includes the group of Kordes roses, bred in the 40s and 50s, which originates from the tetraplod form obtained from the diploid hybrid of the wrinkled rose (Max Graf) in the nursery of Wilhelm Kordes. These roses are distinguished by vigorous bushes with whip-like shoots. They bloom profusely until late autumn. Winter hardy and disease resistant.

Park roses. This combined group of roses combines a number of species, their hybrids, forms, varieties and varieties, such as, for example, Gallic rose, alba (Maydens Blasch variety, N. I. Knchunov), Damascus, centifolia, moss, yellow, femoral-leaved, wrinkled ( Queen of the North), etc. The name of the group takes into account only its purpose. In terms of frost resistance and unpretentiousness, these roses are superior to all garden ones.

Damask, centifolous, alba, moss roses have somewhat less winter hardiness.

Ground cover roses are creeping shrubs with long (up to 4 m) shoots, densely covered with small dark green graceful foliage. The ground below them is almost invisible. Most varieties bloom once and very abundantly (there are also remontant ones). The flowers are semi-double and double, of medium size with a strong aroma. During the flowering period, the plants form a carpet of amazing beauty. They are especially promising for the design of hard-to-work areas, in particular, slopes. The best varieties: Snow Ballet (white), Immens (pink semi-double), Summerwind (pink).

The possibilities of wide use of the variety in landscaping in our climate are determined primarily by its winter hardiness, resistance to fungal diseases, combined with good decorative qualities.

The results of the introduction and variety study of roses allow scientists to conclude that, despite the unfavorable climatic and weather conditions of the North-Western region of the Non-Chernozem zone of the RSFSR, the cultivation of roses in the open field is quite acceptable. In this area you can grow the vast majority of groups and varieties of roses, which, with good care, bloom from mid-June to the end of September.

According to the complex of economic and biological characteristics, it is possible to recommend the varieties shown in the table for landscaping and cutting in the open ground.

On acidic soils, the site must be alkalized before planting. Lime should be applied in autumn in dry weather, evenly distributed over the entire area, immediately after harvesting the predecessors. Dose of lime - 150-300 g/m 2 depending on the acidity of the soil. Immediately after liming, the soil should be dug up.

After 10-15 days, humus should be applied to the site at the rate of 8-10 kg / m 2, phosphate fertilizers at the rate of bone meal 30 g / m 2 or double superphosphate - 15 g / m 2, potash fertilizers in the fall - in the form of wood ash at the rate of 50-60 g / m 2 (ash contains phosphorus, potassium, calcium. In birch wood ash - P 2 0 5 - 7.1, KgO - 13.8, CaO - 36.6%. A small amount of chlorine, which present in it and harmful to roses, completely volatilizes in winter). The best potash fertilizer for roses is potassium sulfate, it should be applied in spring and summer as top dressing.

The dug up and fertilized field is left for the winter. In the spring, as early as possible, it is broken with a rake, and before planting roses, it is dug up again to a depth of 25 cm and harrowed.

Garden roses in the conditions of the Leningrad region should be planted only in spring, in late April - early May, as soon as the ground thaws. In autumn, they freeze quickly and winter poorly.

Pits for planting should be 30-50 cm deep, depending on the size of the seedling. The layout of the bushes depends on the strength of the growth of this variety: polyanthus roses are planted in a plot of 30X30 cm, varieties of the floribunda group - 40X40 cm, hybrid tea - 40X50 cm.

The grafting site when planting should be 3 cm below the soil level (Fig. 1). This protects the bushes from freezing in winter, in addition, a bush planted deeper feels better during a drought. It is from dormant buds that young shoots actively grow. Already in the first year, a one-year-old or two-year-old rose seedling blooms profusely.

Rice. 1. Planting roses: a - Correct; b - wrong

It is recommended to moisten the dried planting material excavated from the nursery abundantly, it is best to completely lower the roots into water for several hours. This simple technique has a positive effect on the survival of plants and their further development.

Before planting, the bushes should be carefully inspected, broken, dented and rotten roots removed with a sharp knife to a healthy place and sprinkled with crushed charcoal, long roots are shortened by about 25 cm, the stems of the bush should also be cut to about the same length.

In every plant growing in the ground, there is a certain balance between the aerial part and the root system. Damage to one of these constituent parts leads to a violation of the existing proportions of the bush.

When digging up seedlings, the roots are damaged. In order to restore balance, its crown is shortened.

Before planting, the roots should be dipped in a mash made of cow dung and clay (1:2).

The earth around the bush should be well compacted and watered abundantly.

If the bark on the shoots begins to darken and wrinkle, then, as a rule, the plant dies, and this phenomenon is observed quite often, since noble roses, being plants of southern origin, finish growth late and remain with insufficiently mature shoots that are sensitive to action during transplantation. dry wind and direct sunlight.

To avoid this, immediately after planting, rose bushes should be overlaid with wet moss to a height of 10-15 cm or high with peat (up to 20 cm), or simply earth. Moss or peat must be moistened so that the bushes do not dry out. After the buds germinate (after 10-12 days), with the beginning of the development of young shoots, moss or peat is carefully removed.

If the weather is sunny and hot during planting, roses should be shaded with coniferous paws until the young seedlings get stronger.

Throughout the growing season, roses require constant and meticulous care.

From the moment when the growth on the bushes reaches 15-20 cm, it is necessary to pinch the tops of individual strongly growing shoots for the uniform development of the crown. On weakly branched plants with only 1-2 shoots in the crown, they also need to be pinched over the 3-4th fully formed leaf. Plants that develop weakly, stunted in development, should be pinched twice.

Pinching contributes to a significant strengthening of weak bushes, and it should not be neglected. Even if the bush is strong and gives several shoots of renewal after the first flowering from the root neck, all of them must be pinched off by the end of July so that they give at least two or more strong flowering shoots. You should not pinch later, because in our climatic conditions, the renewal shoots will not have time to form flowers before winter.

In the first year, with careful filling of the soil with fertilizers, the need for top dressing does not arise. In subsequent years, roses need regular top dressing. Roses in the soil constantly require nutrients. During the growing season, they must restore a significant part of the shoots removed during the annual short pruning, give abundant and long flowering, and accumulate a supply of plastic materials in the fall, which requires a large amount of nutrients. The lack of fertilizers in the soil affects primarily the weakening of flowering.

Fertilization begins in early spring from the second year of cultivation immediately after pruning roses. The first dressing is given dry, fertilizers are applied superficially to the soil with shallow incorporation: humus - 5-6 kg per 1 m 2, ammonium nitrate 16-18 g / m 2 or ammonium sulphate 25-30 g / m 2, superphosphate 15-20 g / m 2, potassium sulfate 15-20 g / m 2. Instead of these mineral fertilizers, 60 g of complex fertilizer - nitrophoska can be applied. The second top dressing, already liquid, is done after the first flowering at the end of June, timing it with the next wave of plant growth and development. In 10 liters of water, dilute 2 liters of mullein, 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 100 mg of trace elements or 50 g of nitrophoska with trace elements. The third top dressing should be carried out after the second flowering in early August. For better ripening shoots.

40 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water, limit watering and stop cutting flowers.

During spring and summer, roses with insufficient moisture should be watered abundantly. This should be done in the evening, but in such a way that the leaves dry out by night. The soil should be regularly loosened and weeded, especially after heavy rains, to remove faded flowers.

After mandatory pre-plant pruning, it is recommended to prune rose bushes at the end of the first year of cultivation, when it is time to shelter them for the winter. Many years of experience in the cultivation of roses in the open field indicates that in autumn the bushes should not be cut low, because for a long time and after the end of the growing season, even at a relatively low temperature, the wood ripens, the movement of spare substances from the upper parts of the shoots to the lower ones. In this regard, in the fall, before shelter, only a weak pruning of the unripened tops of the shoots is carried out, highly pruned shoots are pinned and covered for the winter.

Starting from the second year, every year in the spring after the removal of the winter shelter, when the buds on the bushes are already swollen enough, the shoots are pruned, which is necessary not only to form a beautiful bush, but also to obtain abundant flowering at a certain time.

Bushes are pruned based on the biological characteristics of the variety. At the same time, it should be remembered that with a small number of eyes left, fewer young shoots are formed, but stronger ones with large flowers of high quality, i.e., suitable primarily for cutting (a group of hybrid tea roses).

With a large number of eyes left on them, many young, but weaker shoots with flowers of medium size are formed, that is, they are more suitable for landscaping.

There is also a relationship between the length of the shoot and the time of its flowering: flowers on short shoots appear sooner than on long ones. When starting pruning bushes, you should remember this and clearly imagine the purpose of pruning, the possibilities of a variety of a particular garden group. The basis of abundant flowering during annual pruning are last year's shoots, from which flower stalks grow.

There are three ways of pruning bushes: short (strong) - only 1-2 buds are left on the shoot, medium (moderate) - 3-4 buds are left on the shoot and long (weak) - 6-8 buds are left on the shoot (Fig. 2) .

Rice. 2. Spring pruning of a bush: a - hybrid tea rose; b - floribunda roses.

The shoot should be cut no higher than 0.5 cm above the outer bud, the cut should be at a slight slope from the eye. If the cut is made higher, then the stump will die, if lower, you can damage the kidney or allow infection to enter it. An incorrect slope of the cut will lead to the retention of moisture by the kidney and its decay.

Short or long pruning depends on the group of roses. For example, in low-growing polyanthus, pruning, as a rule, is carried out for 2 buds, for medium-sized floribunda - for 3-4, for vigorous varieties of the hybrid tea group - for 6-8 buds (see Fig. 2).

Weaker bushes should be cut shorter, stronger - longer. All shoots that are weak, poorly placed, damaged or even strong, but unnecessary, must be cut off at the base “into a ring”.

Already in the first year after planting in the middle of summer, recovery shoots can grow from the root neck, which grow rapidly and catch up with the height of shoots grown in spring. In the spring of the second year, the recovery shoots are pruned at the same level as the growth of the first year, and in the summer of the second year this growth produces shoots of the first order with lush flowering.

From the third year of cultivation, when pruning, you need to pay attention to the oldest shoots, which with age already have low productivity, are more affected by pests and diseases. Such shoots must be cut to the base "on the ring", leaving powerful recovery shoots instead. In the future, every spring in this way, rejuvenation of the bushes is carried out, ensuring their longevity. In varieties of the floribunda group, it is recommended not to leave shoots older than two years old on the bush. With a harsh winter and severe freezing of the shoots, all the bushes in the spring need to be cut low, just a few centimeters above the soil level and provide them with proper care.

In order for roses to bloom continuously both in summer and autumn, in addition to spring pruning of bushes, it is annually recommended to cut faded inflorescences to the first well-developed upper bud. If the bushes have grown strongly, they are thinned out, removing all underdeveloped shoots and shoots directed inside the bush. Left, they, drying up, become foci of infection.

Particular attention should be paid to pruning climbing, semi-climbing and park roses.

A feature of pruning small-flowered climbing roses is a rather low preplant pruning of seedlings, the removal of all weak shoots. Such a hard pruning stimulates strong growth of vegetative shoots during the first year. For the formation of a large number of flowering shoots of the second order in the next year, it is recommended to keep the shoots of the first order in winter at full length. After flowering during the summer of the second year in the spring of the third year, the faded shoots are cut out.

In large-flowered climbing roses, flowers are formed on basal shoots of the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th orders, that is, each shoot blooms up to 4 years. For full-fledged abundant flowering, the shoots are kept for their entire length and only the very tops with underdeveloped buds are removed in the spring. The exception is the New Dawn variety, which can be cut like hybrid tea roses.

Semi-climbing roses are distinguished by high winter hardiness; they bloom profusely until late autumn. Flowers form on one-year-old and older wood. Flowering is the more powerful and plentiful, the older the bush and the longer the length of the overwintered shoots.

Park roses are not as widespread as hybrid tea or floribunda roses, but their popularity is steadily increasing in the northwestern region due to their high winter hardiness and unpretentiousness. Planted in groups, in solitary plantings, in borders, park roses look great both in summer and autumn, especially in those places where ordinary garden roses do not look at all.

In order to provide park roses with abundant flowering and longevity, aging shoots should be cut regularly, every spring. This stimulates the formation of replacement root shoots, allows you to constantly maintain the base of the bush, restore and renew the root system. Together with the old ones, young, underdeveloped shoots should also be cut out, as well as part of the branches directed inside the bush or intersecting with other branches. To increase the abundance of flowering, it is recommended to shorten the young shoots by about one third in early spring in order to encourage the growth of lateral shoots and their flowering. Growing park roses without pruning leads to their rapid aging and does not ensure optimal flowering of plants. It is not recommended to uproot and replace the neglected plantings of park roses with young plants, they must be cut low, cover the bush with a large amount of humus, dig the soil around the bush deeply, and then water the plants abundantly. Heavy pruning will help rejuvenate plants.

In the conditions of the Northwest, it is preferable to grow grafted roses, since they have a higher winter hardiness. At present, the most widespread rootstock for roses worldwide is the dog rose (Rosa canina). Cultivated roses are also grafted onto other rootstocks. During the growing season, shoots appear below the place of budding. These are basal shoots of the rootstock or, as they are commonly called, wild growth, which can weaken and even replace the grafted variety. Wild shoots should be cut off as soon as they appear. Basal shoots should be removed to the very base, after digging them out with a shovel or shovel. They are never cut at soil level, which only stimulates the formation of new shoots from the underlying buds (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Wild shoots on a garden rose: a - leaves of a cultivated rose; b - rootstock leaves

Flowers are cut only in the early hours, best of all, when the roses are not yet dry from dew. Flowers after cutting must be placed in a cold room with a temperature of 4-10 °, where they can be sorted, sorted, and then placed for some time (12-15 hours) in a bucket with cold water. After that, bouquets are made. Flowers cut in September - October do not require such cooling, since this is already the time of cold autumn nights.

Less terry varieties are cut at the stage of a denser bud than terry ones. The length of the cut peduncle should be such that a part of the shoot with 2-3 leaves remains on the bush.

In autumn, as winter approaches, cut flowers with too long shoots should be avoided, as this leads to a reduction in the crown of the bushes, which is detrimental to successful overwintering. Bushes will overwinter better if their crown is higher, less shortened.

The widespread use of roses in the landscaping of the Northwestern region of the Non-Chernozem zone of the RSFSR is hampered not so much by the negative impact of low temperatures on plants as by high humidity and sudden temperature changes from October to April.

The climate of the region is characterized by relatively mild winters, the average long-term temperature in December, for example, in the Leningrad Region, depending on the region, is -4.2 ... -8.4 °, in January -7.6 ... -10.9 °, in February -6.1...-8.8°. Sometimes winters are very severe, the temperature drops below 30-40 ° and the most careful shelter of roses is required. Warm winters pass with frequent and prolonged thaws, when too warm shelter proves harmful, the temperature under shelter in such winters rises so much that plants can begin to grow and their exhaustion and decay will occur. Therefore, it is necessary to cover the roses in such a way as to prevent the temperature from dropping below the critical one and at the same time to be able to ventilate when necessary. Summer in the region is usually cool, the average long-term temperature in July is 16.2-17.2°, the sum of effective daily air temperatures for the growing season with temperatures above 10° is in the range of 1400-1800°, the amount of precipitation reaches 900 mm per year . Due to the cool and short summer, the wood of heat-loving bushes often does not have time to mature properly, so roses of all garden groups, with the exception of park ones, must be carefully covered.

The annual loss of roses under different shelters is 2-5%, and in some unfavorable years it reaches 12-15% or more. The safety of roses in winter depends on the winter hardiness of plants, their condition, including the degree of ripening of shoots, climatic conditions and methods of sheltering bushes for the winter.

In order for the shoots to ripen faster in autumn, it is recommended in August-September (depending on weather conditions) to make a film roof over the plantings (in the form of a greenhouse or just a film canopy stretched under a slope), which protects the bushes from waterlogging, ensures faster maturation of the wood , reduces the incidence of plant fungal diseases.

There are many methods of sheltering roses in winter, but the most effective of them are those that basically have the so-called air-dry type of shelter, proposed by Professor N.I. Kichunov, and then somewhat improved in accordance with modern conditions and materials by the staff of the Main botanical garden in Moscow.

The essence of this method is as follows: in late September - early October, when the air temperature begins to drop to -3 ... -5 ° C, the bushes are prepared for wintering, they are slightly shortened (only non-lignified parts and broken shoots). All leaves and young grassy unripened shoots that can rot under cover and serve as a source of rose disease are removed. In dry, frost-free weather (in frost, shoots break easily) after pruning, bushes should be treated against pests and diseases with nitrafen (2-3%), copper or iron sulfate (3-4%); then the bushes are allowed to dry, after which the shoots are bent to the ground, covered with coniferous spruce branches, pinned and also covered with coniferous spruce branches on top. The advantage of needles for shelter is that, while perfectly protecting from frost, it does not interfere with air access to the plant, protects it from attack by mice and excessive moisture, which freely goes down.

A box is installed around the rose plantings prepared for shelter and covered with boards or wooden shields. Waterproof material is placed on them (roofing felt, roofing felt, fiberglass, film), and then insulating (sheet, peat, sawdust, glass wool).

In snowy winters, snow cover is a significant factor.

It is imperative to leave vents in the boxes, which must be closed in severe frosts and open for ventilation during periods of warming in order to prevent the shoots from drying out.

The method of shelter proposed by the Main Botanical Garden of the USSR Academy of Sciences is that insulating and waterproof materials are laid on special metal frames made of wire rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm and representing a lattice with cells of about 0.5 m. Width and length frames are different depending on the size of rose plantations, height 0.5 m.

Preparation of bushes for wintering is carried out in the same way as described above, then the bushes are lightly spudded. The frames installed above the roses are covered with foam rubber, reed mats or kraft paper in 6 layers, a plastic film is spread on top, which is fixed from the sides with studs or earth. From the ends leave vents to control the temperature under the shelter. With the onset of persistent frosts, they should be closed, during the thaw period they should be opened to ventilate the plantations.

Many years of experience has shown the effectiveness of the described methods of sheltering roses. The temperature in them does not fall below -5 ... ... -6 °, i.e. it is not critical for garden roses of various groups.

With such shelters, conditions are created that prevent the development of fungal diseases on roses, especially stem burn caused by the Wernsdorf coniothyrium fungus.

Noteworthy is the method of sheltering roses, proposed by an experienced Leningrad amateur grower I. I. Kozminsky. This method differs in that the plants begin to cover before the onset of hard frosts in order to prevent frost damage on the shoots; in Leningrad bushes spud already in mid-September. In mid-October, after the preparation of the bushes for wintering described above, they are unraveled, the shoots are bent to the ground and pinned. Then the bushes are covered with plastic bags filled with sawdust or foam (15 cm layer) so that they fit snugly together. Then a small air layer remains under the bushes and a favorable temperature is maintained during the winter (from 0 to -1 °). If there are very severe frosts, it is recommended to apply an additional layer of bags. With such a shelter in winter, it is easy to control the condition of the plants, for which it is enough to lift any bag, inspect the bushes and lower the bag back into place.

Since film bags tear rather quickly, they are made from a more durable material, such as oilcloth or dense polymer materials.

An amateur from Smolensk, F. I. Irhen, covering roses in an air-dry way, recommends sprinkling the shoots and soil with plenty of ash immediately before sheltering, which dries the soil well and prevents the spread of powdery mildew.

Climbing and semi-climbing roses can be covered without frames using spruce branches, sheet and film (or other waterproof material). At the same time, the leaves from the shoots should be removed, the shoots should be rolled into a ring if possible and bent to the ground where the spruce branches are laid, the shoots should be covered again with spruce branches and a layer of dry leaves, and then with waterproof material, which should be pinned or rolled down with earth.

Sometimes, to shelter roses of various groups, bushes are spudded with earth and covered with leaves on top.

According to Professor S. G. Saakov (1973), such a shelter is warmer than a frame one, but the temperature under it approaches zero and exceeds it when the outside temperature rises (March, April). Such fluctuations adversely affect the condition of plants. The death and damage of roses in this case is caused not so much by low temperatures as by their fluctuations and excess humidity under shelters. Such conditions lead to damping off, especially in winters with frequent or prolonged thaws. Airing roses in this case is impossible.

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the shelter from the roses must be gradually removed, increasing the access of air to the plants in order to prevent them from damping out.

If the plants were covered for the winter in the simplest way - highly heaped up, and covered with a sheet or other insulating material on top, then the top cover, which has compacted during the winter, should be loosened. This will provide better air access and drying of the top layer of the coating.

It is necessary to remove the coating not immediately, but in parts, in order to delay the development of roses as much as possible and protect them from night frosts.

To ventilate roses covered with an air-dry method, on frost-free days, openings specially made in the box should be opened; when frost returns, they are closed.

With the onset of warm weather, when the plants begin to grow, you can begin to remove the shelters. You have to take them off gradually. First, the top layer of leaves, then, when the soil dries out and warm weather sets in, everything else is removed.

This should be done on a cloudy windless day so that the bark, which was in a humid environment without air access, does not immediately receive sunburn and not withered by the wind.

On sunny days, open plants should be shaded, for example, with spruce branches, matting, cloth, etc. In case of frost, cover material should be nearby. Even heavily frozen rose bushes have the ability to recover annually due to the large number of dormant buds in the lower part of the shoots.

At the same time, it is very important to maintain a constant soil moisture by watering, to protect the shoots from drying out, for which they are covered with moistened moss, and fed, primarily with a solution of nitrogen fertilizers.

Almost every year, in the conditions of the Leningrad Region, wild-growing species and cultivars of roses are affected by various pests and diseases. The degree of their defeat is determined both by the environmental conditions of the year and the level of implementation of agrotechnical measures on the site.

Diseases of roses can manifest themselves in the form of the formation of fungal spores inside the tissues of the leaf or shoots (rust, infectious burn or stem cancer), in the form of various raids on leaves, stems and other parts of plants (powdery mildew, downy mildew and others), rot (root rot on cold compacted soils), withering of plants (as a result of damage to the roots and vascular system plants), necrosis (death of individual tissue areas), cancerous growths (bacterial root cancer of roses), viral diseases (mosaic, wilting, variegation, ugliness of flowers, rosette).

Non-infectious diseases of roses are observed when environmental conditions change (frost, heat, lack or excess of moisture, violation of diet, water supply, temperature and light conditions). An excess of certain nutrients causes rapid growth vegetative organs, their fasciation, i.e., ugly fusion of shoots (according to the candidate of biological sciences L. A. Misko). Non-communicable diseases include chlorosis, which manifests itself in whitening or yellowing of the leaves. The cause of chlorosis is a lack of iron in the soil (yellowing of the apical leaves) or manganese (yellowing of the leaves of the middle tier). Fertilizers that acidify the soil reduce the starvation of plants from a lack of iron and manganese. Chlorosis plants are recommended to be watered in the summer months with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 1 m2) or to give them foliar top dressings with ferrous sulfate (0.03%) or 1% citrate iron (2-3 top dressings during the growing season). The manifestation of chlorosis largely depends on the properties of the soil - on compacted, structureless soils, plants fall ill more often.

Source of plant infection infectious diseases there may be spores carried by the wind from diseased plants located nearby and entering the area with soil particles, seeds, cuttings, etc. Viral diseases transmitted by insects, when using cutting tools, through planting or sowing material.

Powdery mildew (Sphaerotheca pannosa var. rosae). Powdery mildew on roses was first described in Germany in 1819. Currently, it is distributed throughout the world.

In the North-Western region of the Non-Chernozem zone of the RSFSR, due to the peculiarities of climatic conditions conducive to the development of the fungus (temperature during the growing season 12-25 °, relative humidity 60-70%), powdery mildew is one of the most frequent and harmful diseases of roses.

The lesion manifests itself on plants in the form of a white arachnoid or mealy plaque of the mycelium.

Roses affected by powdery mildew are stunted, shoots and leaves are deformed and gradually dry out, buds do not form normal flowers or do not open at all, plants lose their decorative appearance. In cold winters, they freeze more.

In late June - early July, there is an outbreak of powdery mildew on roses of all garden groups. The disease is especially severe on the underside of young leaves, older leaves are less susceptible to powdery mildew.

In the fight against powdery mildew, a complex of agricultural practices with the use of chemicals is most effective.

It is necessary to observe the diet, avoid excess nitrogen fertilizers, which contribute to the active growth of young leaves, which are very susceptible to powdery mildew. At this time, it is necessary to feed roses with phosphorus and potash fertilizers, which increase the resistance of plants against powdery mildew.

Depending on the degree of damage, several sprays (with an interval of 7-10 days) should be carried out with one of the following preparations prepared on a soap basis (0.4%):

a) soda ash (0.3-0.5%);

b) copper-soap liquid (0.25%) - copper sulfate is dissolved in a separate bowl, and then slowly, with continuous stirring, poured into the soap solution, with the addition of washing powder;

c) a suspension of colloidal sulfur (1.0-1.5%) - ground sulfur can be used in dry form for dusting plants at an air temperature of at least 20 ° C. Dusting should be carried out on wet leaves in clear weather. If necessary, for the simultaneous control of pests (aphids, mites, leafworms, sawflies, cicadas), insecticides are added to the above preparations (nicotine sulfate - 0.1 -0.15%, karbofos - 0.2%, chlorophos - 0.15% ).

One of the most dangerous diseases that affect the stems of roses is an infectious burn or stem cancer of roses. Stem damage in open ground is caused by the fungus Coniothyrium wernsdorffial Laub. AT last years This disease spread widely and began to cause mass death of plants.

Infectious burn is most pronounced in the spring after the removal of winter shelters, when the plants are weakened. When removing shelters, brown spots are observed on the shoots, bordered by a reddish-brown stripe ringing the shoots.

The upper part of such shoots soon dies off. Secondary infection occurs in the spring from late March to May, depending on air temperature, humidity and characteristics of the variety. The optimum temperature for Wernsdorf coniothirium is from 16 to 18 °, for sporulation - from 12 to 18 °, especially favorable conditions for the development of the disease are created in shelters. In the fight against stem cancer in the open field, after removing winter shelters, spraying with the following fungicides should be used: 3% iron sulfate, 1% DNOC or 1% nitrafen.

During the summer, it is necessary to carry out phytosanitary cutting of the affected shoots and their burning, while the secateurs must be disinfected with alcohol or formalin. Slices should be lubricated with garden pitch with the addition of 0.7% TMTD. During the growing season, plants must be sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid or 0.5% copper oxychloride after 8-10 days, in total 3-4 treatments.

In autumn, before sheltering, the leaves must be cut from the plants, and the plants are treated with 5% Bordeaux liquid. For the winter, the plants are covered with an air-dry method, in the spring, if possible, open earlier. For good aging of wood, give potassium top dressing in the fall. Avoid late fertilizing with nitrogenous fertilizers.

Rose rust. The causative agents of the disease are rust fungi of the genus Phragmidium Link, which infect leaves and shoots, cause them to dry out, in case of severe damage, the entire plant dies. The disease is especially harmful in the southern regions. In the North-Western region of the Non-Chernozem zone of the RSFSR, rust affects mainly park roses, other groups of garden roses are relatively resistant to rust.

According to V. Yu. Rumberg, the resistance of varieties of roses to rust in the conditions of the Estonian SSR differs significantly depending on belonging to one or another garden group. Thus, among hybrid tea roses, resistant varieties accounted for 33%, floribunda groups - 7.8%, remontant groups - 27%, large-flowered climbing groups - 67%, miniature groups - 75%, among rose rugosa hybrids - 50%.

The main measures to prevent the development of rust are agrotechnical measures for pruning affected shoots, harvesting leaves and burning them, and systematic feeding of plants throughout the growing season. According to T. L. Vecheryabina (1965), effective remedy prevention of the development of the disease - foliar top dressing with a 0.3% solution of superphosphate extract and a 0.3% solution of potassium nitrate, carried out at the beginning of growth and development of shoots before each flowering until the plants are completely wetted.

In the fall, before sheltering, the bushes should be treated with any of the following preparations: 1% Bordeaux liquid, 0.4% cuprosan, 0.25% copper-soap preparation, 0.4% copper oxychloride. If necessary, spraying should be done 2-3 times with an interval of 10-12 days.

Black spotting. In the world practice of rose growing, varieties immune to black spot are not known. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Marssonina rosae Diet, which infects rose leaves in the second half of summer. In the North-West of the Non-Chernozem zone of the RSFSR, black spotting appears infrequently, in years with a large amount of precipitation.

Black spots of a rounded or star-shaped form appear on the affected leaves. On black spots, sporulation of the fungus develops in the form of swellings of a rounded or oblong shape. The affected leaves quickly turn yellow and fall off, the bushes become bare.

New young shoots begin to develop from dormant buds, which weaken the plants, reduce their winter hardiness, since they do not have time to ripen by winter.

Until the end of the growing season, affected plants must be systematically treated with a 0.25% copper-soap preparation or 1% Bordeaux liquid, or a 0.3-0.4% cuprosan solution.

Before winter, before sheltering, rose bushes after pruning and removing affected leaves should be treated with a 3% solution of copper or 5% solution of ferrous sulfate, or 3% nitrafen.

Gray rot or botrytis. The causative agent of the disease in many cultural and wild plants and, in roses in particular, the fungus Botrytis cinerea Pers.

Recently, according to L. A. Misko, the harmfulness of the fungus has been increasing every year. AT strong degree roses from the hybrid tea and floribunda groups are infected.

During the growing season in roses, the fungus mainly affects buds with pedicels, which are covered with gray spores of the fungus, rot and fall off without opening. Varieties with light-colored flowers are most susceptible to gray rot.

Increased humidity, dense plantings, high weediness of sites, and excess nitrogenous fertilizers contribute to active rot damage.

Cases of plant damage are observed at a temperature of 3-28 °.

To prevent disease with gray rot, planting roses in open ground in the Leningrad region with the onset of heavy rains is recommended to be protected from high humidity by pulling a canopy of film over them, protecting flowers from waterlogging, systematically collecting and removing affected plant organs.

Of the chemicals, the most effective action renders 0.15-0.2% solutions of benlat, fundazol or euparen. The frequency of treatment is 3-5 days, until the plaque on the plants completely disappears. Radical prophylactic increasing the resistance of plants to gray rot are systematic foliar feeding of roses.

Roses reproduce mainly vegetatively. Several methods of vegetative propagation are used: separation of the offspring, layering, division of the bush, cuttings (green and woody cuttings), budding and grafting of cultivars on the wild rose.

With the first four methods of propagation, own-rooted plants are obtained, with the last two - grafted.

The negative qualities of own-rooted roses compared to grafted ones are their lower winter hardiness, poor rooting of a number of varieties, a slower rate of development in the first year of life, and less resistance to diseases.

Roses are propagated by seeds mainly for obtaining rootstocks and in breeding, when breeding new varieties.

Methods of industrial propagation of roses are grafting, budding and cuttings.

Own-rooted roses are propagated in this way, mainly in the park group (rose rugosa, alba, gallica, centifolia, pimpinelifolia).

The division is carried out in early spring immediately after the soil thaws. The excavated bush is cut into several parts so that each part has well-developed roots and 1-3 shoots. Before planting, the shoots are pruned at a height of 25-30 cm. After planting, the bushes are abundantly watered and spudded with earth, after rooting they are unraveled. Divided bushes of park roses bloom in the second or third year. You can separate part of the plant on the spot, without digging out the entire bush, and then fill the resulting hole with fresh earth.

This method is widely used for varieties whose cuttings are poorly or not rooted at all.

Reproduction by layering is done in the spring. An annual shoot, slightly cut on the underside, is pinned on the dug up ground with wooden or metal hooks and covered with earth, except for the top of the shoot, which is vertically tied to a peg. During rooting, the earth must be moist at all times. Rooted layers are separated from the mother plant next spring. A number of park roses (Rosa rugosa, Wazagaming variety) form offspring - natural layers that create their own root system. Separated from the mother plant, they can be used as planting material.

Reproduction by green cuttings makes it possible to get many new ones from one mother plant. Cuttings are harvested from semi-lignified shoots with buds. Too young grassy shoots are not suitable for this purpose.

In greenhouses, cuttings begin in March. From ground roses, cuttings begin to be harvested in the second half of June. As a substrate, you can use a mixture of peat and sand (3: 1), with a layer (2 cm) of coarse-grained river sand on top, a mixture of vermiculite and sand (1: 1) or perlite, etc. Harvested shoots are cut into cuttings 5-6 cm long with two leaves. The lower cut is made obliquely under the kidney itself. To reduce evaporation, remove the bottom sheet and part of the top. The use of growth substances increases rooting and accelerates the formation of roots. The most commonly used solution is heteroauxin at a concentration of 150-200 ml / l. Cuttings are recommended to be kept in heteroauxin for 12-16 hours. Before planting, the substrate is watered abundantly. The cuttings are placed according to the scheme of 4X6 cm in a box measuring 60X40X8 cm. sunshine(it is recommended to cover the top of the box with damp paper and film). The use of fogging plants with automatic regulation of the temperature of the substrate significantly accelerates rooting. Roses, rooted in March-April in the greenhouse, in May-June grow in film greenhouses to finished products. Cuttings of summer cuttings are left for the winter in the greenhouse at a temperature of 3-5 ° or in storage at a temperature of 0-3 °. In the spring, the remaining plants are planted for growing. Climbing, miniature roses and most varieties from the polyanthus and floribunda groups take root almost 100%. Hybrid tea roses also take root well, remontant and park roses - only 30-50%, with the exception of some varieties, for example, Vazagaming (rooting rate - 90%).

When pruning roses in autumn, a large number of lignified shoots suitable for cuttings can be selected. It is necessary to remove leaves from pruned shoots and store them until spring in a snowfield (t = 0 °). A snowfield is arranged as follows: in a place protected from wind and drops, a pillow of snow 70-80 cm high is made, bunches of shoots 20-30 cm long with plastic labels are placed on it, on which the names of the varieties are written with a pencil (labels should only be tied to the bunches with synthetic twine). From above, the cuttings are also covered with snow to a height of 70-80 cm and sawdust to a height of 40 cm. In late April - early May, cuttings 10-20 cm long are cut from overwintered shoots, kept for 12-16 hours. in a solution of heteroauxin (200 ml / l), then they are planted in ridges so that only one kidney remains above the ground. For better rooting of the cuttings, the ridges are covered with a film.

Caring for the cuttings consists in watering, which is carried out as the top layer of the earth dries up. In June, part of the cuttings take root. In August, young roses bloom. They overwinter in the ground under normal shelter. Cuttings of climbing, polyanthus and floribunda roses take root well, while tea-hybrid and remontant ones are much worse.

The most widely used as a rootstock for garden roses is a dog rose, winter-hardy and resistant to pests and diseases, with a strong low-growth root system, compatible with various varieties of garden roses.

Rose hips begin to be harvested when they turn brown, the seeds are immediately cleaned and stratified (the seeds are mixed with sand, moistened and kept until sowing for a year at a temperature of +3 ... + 4 ° C). Sow seeds in October next year into well-prepared soil before it freezes. Seeding rate - 4-5 g per 1 lin. m., planting depth - 2-3 cm. Seedling care includes loosening the soil, weeding, watering, fertilizing and fighting diseases and pests. In July-August, 40-50% of seedlings have a neck diameter of 6-8 mm, i.e., they are suitable for budding (the rest are budding in the next summer).

For the preparation of cuttings, matured shoots of the current year that have finished flowering are used (the axillary buds must not be allowed to start growing). It is best to prepare the cuttings the day before before budding, immediately remove the thorns and leaves, leaving only the stipule, for which it is convenient to hold the grafted eye during budding.

Most often, roses are budded into the root neck (6-8 mm in diameter), however, budding can be carried out anywhere on a lignified shoot with the same diameter.

Before budding, the area of ​​rootstocks should be well watered to cause increased sap flow and a good lagging of the bark from the wood. Before budding, the rootstock bushes are shortened by one third, the lower shoots that interfere with work are removed, the root neck is unraveled and thoroughly wiped with a clean cloth. Then, on the root collar or on the shoot, a T-shaped incision 1.5-2 cm long is made with a sharp budding knife, the bark is separated from the wood with a plastic “brush” of the knife, the shield is cut from the handle with a knife, while capturing the thinnest possible layer of wood, and inserted the shield is completely cut into the root neck or on the shoot (if the shield does not fit in the cut, it is cut along the line of the transverse cut of the bark), tied with a thin elastic (preferably light-destructible) polyethylene film. After tying, the occluded plants are lightly spudded. When budding, the cut cuttings for cutting the scutes of the scutes, the petioles fall off when lightly touched, they are snored in a damp cloth in the shade, if necessary, such cuttings should be left in the refrigerator overnight.

After two weeks, the survival of the shields is checked. In the accustomed scutes, the cherries fall off with a light touch, in the dead, they firmly adhere to the scutellum, which begins to turn black. Re-grafting on rootstocks with blackened shields, if time permits, can be done in the same year, in extreme cases - in the next.

For better preservation, the occulants should be dug up at the beginning of October, the remnants of the light-destroying film should be removed from them and buried in sand, in a cellar or basement, where the temperature should be maintained at 0-2 °. In the spring, oculants from a joke can be planted early in pots and placed in a greenhouse, after rooting (after 10-15 days), the oculants are cut at a height of 0.5 cm above the T-shaped incision. The cut is covered with var, the growing shoot of the rose is pinched over the 3-4th leaf. The grown seedling is recommended to be planted in the ground in mid-June, without disturbing the lump, after the danger of frost has passed.

If the budded plants will overwinter in the ridges where they were budded, a dry shelter should be arranged over them for the winter without hilling the occulants (according to the type perennial plantings roses). Pruning and coating of the stock in such cases should be carried out after the complete removal of shelters, with the onset of stable heat. Summer grafting with a green cutting (for the bark or in the cutout) in the open field is used relatively rarely. The main difficulty in this is to maintain sufficient moisture around the grafts, for which the grafts must be covered with wet paper, and on top of it with a film, the edges of which are covered with earth.

I want to say the same about functionality. Last year I planted Swany, bought it as a groundcover - it turned out like in the pictures, spread in a circle in different directions, all strewn with wonderful white double flowers. But Lawender Jewell is a miniature. But apparently she liked me so much that by the fall she had become far from miniature, but also scattered powerful shoots in all directions, and it also turned out, albeit smaller, but a ground cover. This winter is their first. After last winter, this one, she covered everyone thoroughly. But now I think that Lara is right - there is nothing to spoil. Wow now what warm winter. And the snow in our village is up to our ears. So in the future I will do like Lara - spud and spruce branches. But all in a row. Without parsing. If it’s all the same to cover, why figure out if it hibernates without shelter or not, and if it freezes out, then it doesn’t hibernate ....
Winter, ground cover roses are not more capricious than the others, but vice versa. A.I. Teorina told us in the classroom that this is the most "fertile group of roses", "just a gift for the rose grower", in the sense that it is easier to grow it for others.
I will quote a piece from my abstract that I managed to write down, although now, re-reading, I think that Alexandra Ivanovna would not agree with the absence of ground cover as a class:
"- The first ground cover rose created in 1919 was "Max Graf", and exists to this day. "Nozomi" - received in 1968.
- All have small, shiny foliage and almost never get sick.
- Frost-resistant.
- Previously, these roses were single flowering, but in 1970. Meian brought out "Svani" (white) and "Feona" (red), they were already in continuous flowering.
- Ground cover roses are not pruned, only faded shoots, old and unripe before winter.
- Very unpretentious, but require well-drained fertile soil.
- Height from 30cm ("Zomer Abent") to 80cm ("Bonica").
- Many have whips up to 4 m.
- They can be shaped as semi-plaited. Trim like a folribunda.
- They can be planted anywhere, on lawns, on hills, to cover all unfavorable places, but they are very fond of good soil and do not like weeds.
(my note: weeds grow only at first, then they cannot break through).
- These roses take the proper form for 3-4 years, when they increase the mass.
- "Ballet", "Knirps", "Lavender Dream", "Satin", "Zomer Vint", "Zomer Verkhen", "Yellow Flaret", "Snow Carpet".
So, Winter, plant and do not think. Treat like everyone else, just love them. In general, Alexandra Ivanovna often repeated that “a rose is the most grateful flower in the garden, if you take care of it once a season, then it will please you one day, if you take care of it every day, then it will delight you every day.” you with their flowering, growth and simply health. Personally, I am convinced of this.
Something very long. I beg your pardon.

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Among the large number of types of roses, ground covers are the easiest to grow. Adhering to simple basic rules, even an amateur grower can grow them. Learn how to properly care for ground cover roses.

top dressing

For the entire period, ground cover roses are fed only 3-4 times in 1-1.5 months. During the flowering period, the plant is forbidden to feed. First feeding produced in early spring, when the first buds appear on the bushes. For top dressing, a nitrogen mixture is used for the first time, during the budding period it is replaced with a mixture with a high content of phosphorus and calcium. The first of them will give growth to leaves and buds, and the second will strengthen them. During last top dressing use a mixture containing potassium to prepare roses for winter. In order for roses to please with their beauty, it is better to choose special mixtures with a high content of trace elements, such as Agricola for Blooming.

Watering

For ground cover roses, watering is very important. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that there should not be too little or too much water. If the bush transfuse, then root rot is inevitable if underfill, then flowering will be short and not so plentiful. It is recommended to moisten ground cover roses 1-2 times a week, but you should be guided by the condition of the soil: if drying is noticeable by 4-5 cm, then watering is necessary.

Roses can only be watered in the morning or in the evening. In no case should this be done in hot weather, since water, falling on the leaves, roses under the influence of sunlight can significantly damage them. In general, in any case, it is undesirable to wet the leaves: fungal diseases can form on them, so the bush is watered only under the root.

It is best to water climbing roses rain water, but the usual one is also suitable, the main thing is that it is not cold (it can be preheated in the sun). For one watering, about 15 liters of water are consumed.

Sanitary pruning

Pruning need 2 times a year. During pruning, it is impossible to shorten the shoots much, because. The laying of buds occurs only at their ends, which means that by cutting them too much, you can delay the beginning of flowering. Also, when the bush fades, it is better to cut the dried buds. This is especially important for young plants: so they will have more strength for subsequent flowering.

Second pruning held on request in the fall. At this time, all branches are shortened by 2-3 buds, diseased shoots are removed. They do this to prevent the development of fungal diseases.

Shelter for the winter

Ground cover roses tolerate cold well and may even not shed their leaves until spring. But considering what winters are in middle lane, where temperature changes very often occur, it is better to cover the plants for the winter. You can use ordinary agrofilm, spruce branches for this, geotextiles are also suitable.

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