Why did the tree wither after winter. Why do fruit trees dry out? How to protect raspberries from pests and diseases

As such, it was not, the lion's share of the site was planting, and the beds and fruit trees could only divide the space around the house. In the front garden, as a hedge, penetrating the old picket fence with elastic branches, they grew by themselves, and behind them, closer to the house, several cherry trees.

These few trees gave us a modest but steady crop of fragrant, sour northern cherries. This happened from year to year, and seemed unshakable and familiar. At the same time, I do not remember that my grandmother somehow looked after cherry trees. They, like currants, lived next to us with their independent lives.

Subsequently, planting apple and cherry seedlings on my site, I expected the same result. Alas, this did not work out. Very often in the spring I have to observe a sad picture - some young fruit tree does not wake up after a winter sleep, or, waking up and starting to bloom small leaves, suddenly dries up on the vine. This is what happened this spring. Another cherry did not wake up, and out of the four varietal cherries planted, now I have only one tree left.

cherry with live buds

The issue became acute, and it was no longer possible to postpone the search for a way out of the current situation. An attentive reader of the Green Blog could not fail to notice that the main idea of my articles is the idea of the inadmissibility of the use of any artificially created chemicals on earth. But, all the sources that I got acquainted with, trying to understand how to prevent, spoke about one thing: it would not be possible to do without chemistry.

And this tree died, the buds are dry, inanimate

I realized that in my case it was most likely a monilial burn. I confess, I made a decision and settled on Horus, which has not only a therapeutic effect, but also a preventive one. The manufacturer claims that it does not harm bees, but is dangerous for fish if it enters water bodies. In addition to monial burn, this preparation helps protect fruit trees from fruit rot, clusterosporiosis, coccomycosis, alternariosis, scab and powdery mildew. Horus can be used in wet, humid weather (but not in the rain) and low air temperature, in addition, two hours after treatment, the drug is not washed off by rain.

So I sprayed cherries, plums, young apple trees, cherry plums and sea buckthorn. After 10 days, the treatment will need to be repeated. I will be able to tell about the results of the work done only in a year. I really hope that the losses in my garden will stop.

Why do fruit trees dry out?

Drying out is a fairly common occurrence, which, as a rule, leads to the death of individual branches or the entire tree. There are many reasons for desiccation. Therefore, it is impossible to name one of them without specifying the details related to the conditions of planting, growth and phytosanitary condition of fruit trees.

The drying of young trees in the first year after planting is most often associated with the quality of seedlings, poor planting conditions and the survival period.

Often the trees dry up because the roots of the seedlings were very weak or dried, and after planting they did not provide the flow of water and minerals to the developing above-ground organs.

It also happens that the roots of the acquired seedlings were normal, but you were delayed with planting and did not ensure the safety of the root system. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out both autumn and spring planting as soon as possible, and if this fails, then dig the seedlings in moist soil or cover with wet material.

Poor quality seedlings can be purchased unknowingly from unscrupulous sellers, especially when selling planting material in the spring that has not been sold since autumn.

Quality seedlings most often take root poorly and dry out for the following reasons:

* After planting, there was no proper watering or natural soil moisture. In this case, the root system is not able to provide the necessary moisture for blossoming buds and growing shoots;

* with early spring or late autumn planting Roots sank into cold soil. In the spring, the buds begin to bloom, and the roots are not yet functioning. A moisture deficit is created for the growing aerial part. Watering with warm water can help in such a situation;

* planting was carried out on poor, infertile soils in poorly prepared planting pits. You need to know that planting pits must be of appropriate size for each fruit crop and filled with fertile soil mixed with humus or compost. Sometimes, when determining the reasons for the drying of young trees, it turns out that they were planted in small pits covered with the same dry soil. In fact, "stuck in the ground."

The drying up of young, older and fruit-bearing trees is also a very common phenomenon. It can be transient, when individual skeletal branches or the entire tree die in a few weeks, or one growing season, and chronic, in which gradual drying occurs over several years.

The initial causes of fruit drying can be divided into non-infectious and infectious.

The most common non-infectious causes are:

Planting fruit trees in areas with a high level of groundwater. At the same time, trees on tall rootstocks dry first and drying comes from the apical parts of the crown. In the first years after planting, trees can grow and develop normally. When the roots reach groundwater, the bulk of the suction part of the roots begins to experience oxygen deficiency and dies. It happens that initially normal level groundwater rises after irrigation work carried out near plantings (construction of artificial reservoirs or filling existing ones with water);

Gradual salinization of the soil due to irrigation with mineralized underground and waste waters. In this case, the drying process proceeds in much the same way as with a high occurrence of groundwater. Only the death of the roots occurs due to the excess content of salts in the water (0.15-0.25% or more);

Poor growing conditions for fruit trees: very poor and dense long time soil, severe drought, prolonged flooding;

Shrinkage often begins due to partial freezing of last year's growth. First of all, incompletely matured and lignified shoots freeze slightly, which are formed due to the lengthening of the growing season, associated either with increased doses of nitrogen fertilizers, or with a long warm and humid autumn. Sometimes normally matured growth is also subjected to freezing, falling under winter or early spring thaws, when the period of winter dormancy ends in fruit crops.

Freezing of bark and wood during the winter leads to chronic gradual drying. In stone fruits, the tree is greatly weakened by long-term gum production.

Infectious desiccation is associated with the development of diseases such as black cancer, cytosporosis, monilial burn, bacterial bark cancer, klesterosporiosis, coccomycosis, verticillium wilt. The symptoms of each of them are specific at the initial and subsequent stages of their development, but the final result is drying out skeletal branches or entire trees.

Often diseases of infectious drying begin in those parts of the crown that were originally susceptible to such non-infectious diseases as freezing and injury to the bark, sunburn, frost and growth cracks in the bark, dry top. The causative agents of black cancer, cytosporosis, bacterial cancer of the bark, milky sheen infect only the dying tissues of the bark and wood, and then, due to their toxic secretions, penetrate into the neighboring healthy tissue, leading to its death.

To protect fruit trees from drying out, it is necessary to eliminate the causes that cause it. Of these, only the groundwater level and winter weather conditions are beyond the gardener's control.

But if the disease still manifests itself, it is necessary to immediately cut out the drying parts of the crown (with the obligatory capture of an outwardly healthy area) and create optimal growing conditions for the tree.

Y. Stroikov , Candidate of Biological Sciences, TSHA, Moscow

(Garden and vegetable garden No. 7-8, 2010)

Twice a year you can eat raspberries. Ripening begins at the beginning of summer, the second stage of fruiting - in September, when you can treat yourself to raspberries until the first frost. The raspberry bush is an unpretentious plant, but it is also prone to various diseases.. One of the most common is the drying of leaves, berries and shoots. In this article we will try to figure out why the berries, leaves dry and what to do in such cases, what are the methods of treatment.

Causes of drying branches and berries

The drying process is called withering away syndrome. Most young plants are susceptible to it, because with the growth of a shrub, young shoots crack. This contributes to the rapid penetration of insect larvae and phytopathogenic fungi, the main culprits of drying, into the interior of the stem.

Disease caused by the reproduction of phytopathogenic fungi, manifests itself in the death of the stems in early spring. After winter, infected branches slowly grow back and dry out. If the plant does not have enough moisture, then the process is faster. If you do not take action, you can lose more than half of the stems and ovaries of raspberries.

Stems will crack more if they don't get enough water. Excessive fertilization of the soil with growth accelerators will also affect the integrity of the branches, because they do not have time to turf.

The culprit of infection of raspberry bushes is gall midge. Getting through natural cracks or mechanical damage into the inside of the stem, it lays larvae that feed on the bark of the plant and destroy its protective layer - the periderm. This is the main barrier that prevents the penetration of phytopathogenic fungi into the interior of the plant.

Shoots become a feeding trough for larvae. In place of their greater accumulation, ulcers appear that prevent the spread of nutrients throughout the plant. This leads to the death of the upper part of the stem. The disease manifests itself in the form of purple or dark brown spots on the shoots..

Why do berries dry up?

The drying of raspberries is facilitated by various viral diseases that spread cicadas and aphids. These sucking insects carry the infection from diseased plants. The diseases are different, but the result is the same for everyone - the drying of the berries.

With viral chlorosis of the berry develop poorly, do not have time to gain juice and color, and eventually dry out.
With a yellow mosaic if the berry does not completely dry out, then it develops unilaterally and has a dryish, insipid taste.

Curly characterized by underdevelopment of berries and their drying. Bushes infected with this virus die within a few years.

First of all, diseases affect the crop. The one-sided development of berries, their shedding and drying should be a signal for the start of emergency action.

Why do leaves dry and curl during fruiting?

Viral and bacterial diseases of raspberries, spread by flying insects, provoke the drying of the leaves, even during fruiting. Diseases that affect berries primarily affect the condition of the leaves and their development. The same viruses have a negative effect on the plant and yield:

Viral chlorosis. Infected leaves begin to turn yellow, dry and curl in the midst of growth and flowering along with berries, shoots become small compared to healthy ones.
yellow mosaic. This disease is characterized by yellowing leaves with twisted dry edges. It is an insect-borne virus that appears in late spring and mid-August.
Curly. You can distinguish healthy shoots from diseased ones by several signs:

slowdown growth;
thickening in diameter;
leaf color change to brown;
reduction in leaf size and their drying.

What is chlorosis and how to treat it

A disease that is often infected with a raspberry bush is chlorosis. His by nature of origin are divided into:

What does a bush affected by this virus look like:

turning yellow first in the center, then the whole leaves;
shoots are thinning and pulled out
berries or not formed at all, or half matures, and the other half dries.

Chlorosis should be dealt with immediately after planting. For this, there is a whole a range of products for spraying the plant and protecting it from sucking insects. If you want to harvest this year, then you should process in 2 stages:

In early spring, before bud break, use a 3% solution of Nitrafen or a 0.2% solution of Nicotine sulfate.
Before flowering emulsion of 30% Methylmercaptophos.

Before raspberries begin to ripen after spraying, at least 45 days must pass.

If chlorosis was provoked by adverse weather conditions, irrigation with cold water or a lack of organic compounds, you need to try improve the quality of plant care:

normalize watering with warm water, it is better if it is river or lake, heated in the sun;
make the soil more fertile through the application of mineral fertilizers;

soften the ground forest floor or peat.

Remember that it is easier to protect against the disease than to cure later.

How to protect raspberries from pests and diseases

Mulching is one way to protect. By protecting the roots of the plant, such a surface layer will allow the plant to get stronger and push back the process of cracking the stems when they become resistant to the disease. The mulch layer must be removed when the first buds appear. The soil under it is always saturated with moisture, this can cause rotting, death of the kidneys and eventually drying out.

Mulching is one of the most important conditions for preparing a plant for winter. It prevents freezing of roots and shoots, prevents the evaporation of moisture and protects against constant winds in some regions.

If you cut off the damaged stems in time, you can save part of the shrub. You need to cut off all areas covered with dark spots and small growths.. It will be better to remove the entire "sick" shoot completely.

Let the bush grow stronger and grow, spraying will help, which must be carried out during a period of rapid growth, at the beginning and in the middle of summer. The lower part of the plant is processed, from the ground level by 25 - 30 cm upwards. Mixtures "Aktellik" - 0.2%, "Fufanon" - 0.3% and "Topaz" - 0.1% are suitable for this. Fruiting raspberries should be sprayed with the same preparations before flowering and after harvesting. To preserve the integrity of the berries, after flowering, 3 treatments with the Fitoverm biological product - 0.3% with an interval of 1 week should be carried out.

Proper planting of young plants

How new bushes are planted will depend on their resistance to gall midge larvae and viral diseases.

Young plants should be planted away from old bushes, which can be infected with larvae and fungi.

It is necessary to wash the roots under the pressure of water and wash all the soil from them. It is recommended to dig a small hole nearby, where water and soil residues will drain. The roots may contain unhatched gall midge eggs that need to be neutralized, i.e. bury.

The roots must be placed on a hard surface or placed in a metal mesh so as not to damage.

After landing completely cut raspberry stalks even if you plant in the spring.

If possible, raspberries should be covered with non-woven material to prevent infection viral infections carried by flying insects.

Once every 2 weeks, spray with Bordeaux mixture or other chemicals allowed for raspberries. During this period, it is not a high yield that is important, but the strengthening of the stems and protection from pests and diseases.

Record Why raspberries dry and what to do? first appeared Pro Farm.

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A gardener has a lot to do in the spring, so that in the fall the apple trees will please with an excellent harvest. Work in the garden is started as soon as the air temperature during the day is not lower than +10 C (beginning to mid-April), and the probability of night frosts is minimal. Spring care for an apple tree consists of the following activities:

The tree is freed from winter insulation, shelters;
They clean the territory of near-trunk circles from last year's fallen fruits, leaves, branches. Such cleaning is necessary not only in autumn, but also in spring.
Inspect the trunk, branches for damage. If the wounds are superficial (for example, cracking and peeling of the bark), then it is enough to remove the damaged bark and treat it with garden pitch.
In the presence of serious damage to the trunk or branch, for example, by rodents, the bare wood is carefully cleaned and covered with garden pitch, and then twisted with burlap.
Before the appearance of the kidneys, pruning of the apple tree is performed. Remove damaged and weak branches, growths. Formative pruning avoids bifurcation of the main trunk.

Important! Before you start pruning apple trees, you should read the recommendations and advice of experts, watch thematic videos on the Internet. Incorrect spring pruning will greatly weaken the tree and reduce its yield and resistance to diseases and pests.

After pruning, they begin to whitewash the trunk, skeletal branches. For this, solutions of lime, chalk, copper sulfate are used. Sometimes acrylic paint is applied to the trunk for a protective layer, which is more resistant to rain and frost. These are the main jobs that a gardener does every spring.

Rules for caring for an apple tree in spring

However, very often in the spring, gardeners, when examining an apple tree, find drying out, both of its individual parts and of the entire tree. This situation requires the adoption of immediate measures, but before them it is necessary to understand why the apple tree dried up after the winter, because the choice of measures depends on the cause, which will reduce the consequences of this phenomenon not only in current year but also in subsequent seasons.

Establishing a specific cause is not easy.

To begin, consider a few general points that can lead to the drying of an apple tree during the entire growing season:

Features of the soil in the garden;
Shallow occurrence of the groundwater horizon;
Disadvantage either complete absence elements and trace elements;
Influence of climatic and atmospheric conditions;
The manifestation of fungal, viral, bacterial diseases;
The presence of dangerous pests.

After wintering, the apple tree can either partially or completely dry out due to:

Severe frosts, lack of snow cover;
Insufficient shelter of the trunk circle;
Bacterial disease root cancer.

The defeat of the apple tree caused by the reasons described above has a number of negative consequences:

Freezing of the trunk and root system leads to the drying of a healthy apple tree after winter.
Cancer growths on the root and its lateral processes rot in autumn, completely destroying the root. The tree dies in the spring.

If the apple tree dries up in spring or June

If an apple tree dries up in the spring, what to do to save it, the gardener can decide only after he determines the reason for the drying of the branches, tops, leaves of the trunk. Let's examine each of these cases in detail.

Why do the branches of the apple tree dry

The reasons

The main reasons for the drying of branches on an apple tree are:

waterlogging of the trunk circle with groundwater;
excessive accumulation of water from melting snow;
nutritional deficiency.

Effects

Excess moisture prevents air from reaching the root hairs, which provide the entire tree with nutrients;
From a lack of nutrition, the branches of the apple tree begin to dry out gradually.

The apple tree dries up in spring

Dried top

The reasons

The drying of the top of the apple tree occurs due to reasons such as:

High occurrence of groundwater;
Flooding of the near-stem circle and the root system with melt water in the spring with a sharp warming;
Lack of nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium starvation).

Effects

Waterlogging of the soil leads to decay and partial death of the root system, which leads to dry top.
Due to the insufficient amount of certain nutrients (nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium), the plant shows signs of starvation. The tops are starting to dry out. For example, if the top of a young apple tree is almost half dry, then it does not have enough nutrition for growth.

Leaves dry

The reasons

On a plant with a damaged root, not only the branch, top, but also the leaf becomes dry and lifeless.

But the main reasons for the drying of foliage are:

Scab - the leaves are covered with an oily coating, brown, gradually growing spots appear;
Powdery mildew - the leaves first become dirty gray, then dark brown;
Rust - bright brown spots with black dots appear on the sheet plate;
Black cancer - the leaves are covered with black spots, black ulcers and rot appear on the branches and bark of the trunk. This insidious disease can destroy all parts of the tree in a short time. Often this infection becomes the reason why apple trees die on the site with good care.
Lack of nutrients: potassium, zinc, magnesium, calcium.

Effects

The leaves begin to wilt and dry prematurely. The apple tree does not bear fruit.

Flowers dry

The reasons

Lack or absence of minerals;
Fungal diseases (powdery mildew, black cancer or sooty fungus);
The presence of pests (aphids, ants, ticks).

Effects

During the flowering period, the plant requires enhanced nutrition. But if any individual nutrient (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) is not contained in the soil, then the annoying fall of the flowers and the drying of the buds begin. Flower buds heavily affected by diseases or pests may not bloom at all. All this will lead to the fact that the future harvest will be in jeopardy.

If a young branch is covered with aphids (it’s enough to look closely), then the flowers, before they have time to bloom, dry up.
Black cancer is an insidious disease. It destroys all parts of the tree. The petals turn brown, the pistil and stamens turn black.
Withered central trunk

The reasons

proximity to groundwater;
Accumulation of surface waters;
Complete freezing of the roots in winter;
Bacterial cancer (growths, seals on the roots);
Insufficient trunk insulation for the winter.

Effects

Waterlogging of the soil near the trunk circle adversely affects the roots. Also, the root system infected with bacterial cancer does not survive. Without a root, the main trunk dies, it is almost impossible to save the tree.

If the trunk of an apple tree is not properly insulated for the winter, then cracks may appear in severe frosts. The capillaries of the trunk and the fibers of the cortex die.

All buds dried up

The reasons

The presence of a disease (powdery mildew);
Impact of winter and spring frosts;

Effects

If the buds damaged by powdery mildew are not treated in time, they may die, and the tree will not bear fruit.

Both in winter and in spring, the kidneys can suffer from frost. How to reanimate an apple tree if all the buds have dried up will be described below.

Half an apple tree withered

The reasons

proximity to groundwater;
The main trunk was not insulated for the winter;
The presence of rodents (mice, moles).

Effects

Due to the partial death of the roots as a result of freezing, wetting, damage by rodents, part of the apple tree, sometimes half, dries up.

The apple tree withered, and a new sprout came out from the root

When a tree cannot be saved, it dries up. But even in this case, the apple tree can be reanimated if a small root still survives in the ground, from where a small shoot can come out. But a real fruit-bearing tree will not work out of this wild game - the fruits will be small, tasteless, and the branches are strewn with thorns. In order to get a cultivated tree for a wild game, you need to graft a part of the cultivated variety - a shield with a kidney, a cutting.

The apple tree withered, and a new sprout came out from the root

Thus, each of the above reasons can be an answer, for example, because of what and why apple trees are dying this year on the site.

Dried apple tree after winter what to do

With diseases

At the first signs of damage to the plant by a fungus, bacteria begin treatment:

Powdery mildew is sprayed with a solution of fungicides (Hom, Skor, Topaz);
For the treatment of scab, rust, drugs are used: Fitosporin-M, Horus, Gamair, etc. Spraying with Bordeaux liquid (1%) is carried out at intervals of 2-3 weeks. From rust, 3 treatments are enough; to treat scab, up to 7 sprays will be required.

On a note. To prevent burns when processing buds, young leaves, buds and flowers, Bordeaux mixture is used with a solution concentration of not more than 1%.

Often gardeners resort to simple means. For example, solutions for spraying trees can be made from copper sulfate (5 g per 10 liters of water), baking soda(50 g per 10 l).

It is difficult to overcome a disease such as black cancer, it is easier to prevent it, for which a number of preventive works are performed:

Sick branches, leaves are removed, as spores of the fungus love to winter in fallen leaves and fruits.
Seedlings are carefully selected, examining the roots for the presence of diseased growths. Then in the spring there will be no problem why the young apple tree dries up what to do with it.

To get rid of harmful insects, the plant is sprayed with a solution of drugs such as Decis, Karate, Aktelik, Iskra, Inta-Vir, Fufanon and their analogues. From common rodents and moles, special potent poisons are used, for example, the drug Ratobor.

Dried apple tree after winter

Undernourished (signs of starvation)

In the spring, the crown is correctly formed, excess branches are cut off so that they do not take food;
Flowers, buds, buds are sprayed with drugs: Scor, Epin-extra, Ovary. Processing is carried out before the appearance of flowers, then during the flowering period (May) and when flowering is fully completed (June-July).
In late April-early May, apple trees are fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, etc.). In June, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, and potassium nitrate are added. From organic matter, slurry, an infusion of chicken manure are used.

With waterlogging of the soil, the proximity of groundwater

In the spring, the trunk circle is allowed to dry well, for which shallow drainage ditches are equipped.
Places of accumulation of water are sprinkled with fertile soil.

With adverse weather conditions

The central trunk is securely covered for the winter, otherwise the tree may simply not overwinter, completely freezing out in severe frosts.
The trunk circle is covered with snow.
For regions with a harsh climate, seedlings of zoned varieties with high frost resistance are purchased (for example, any winter variety - Medunitsa, Grushovka Moskovskaya, Melba, etc.).

On a note. More detailed information about growing conditions, ripening dates for any variety of apples can be found in the State Register of Breeding Achievements Approved for Use.

Prevention

In order not to face the problem of why the apple tree dries and what to do in this case, preventive measures are needed:

If the aquifer is not deep in the area where the apple tree grows, then drainage and drainage ditches are needed. You can not do without adding from a mixture of peat, fertile land, rotted manure, sawdust.
By winter, the trunks of apple trees are well insulated, windproof shelters are equipped.
Mulching is done in autumn. To do this, dry and loose compost, rotted manure are poured into the trunk circle, sawdust is not conifers(birch, alder). If the winter turned out to be harsh, frosty, then they are additionally covered with snow.
Top dressing of plants is carried out in a timely manner, in compliance with the norms and the number of top dressings. When August comes, an adult tree gives a lot of strength to pour fruit, so it is fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

On a note. In the first year, young apple trees are not fed, since when planting seedlings, all the necessary nutrients are introduced.

Spring pruning of branches (sanitary, forming) is performed correctly. Removed and damaged branches are removed from the site, the cuts are disinfected and treated with garden pitch, oil paint.
Trees are checked for the presence of pests, the presence of diseases. Modern drugs allow you to cope with any disease.

In order for the apple orchard to please with an excellent harvest, and for the apple to be appetizing and tasty, the trees need care and attention. Then the branches will turn green, and the buds will open and bloom.

It is called creeping hops, beer hops, curly hops, bitterness... This powerful and beautiful vine has everything to be useful to man. Hops are revered by many peoples of the world, it is a symbol of fertility, strong economy, prowess, happiness and longevity, it is depicted on coats of arms and coins. But many summer residents are not at all happy with him. Hops tend to grow rapidly, inhibiting the growth of cultivated plants around them. But is it really necessary to fight it?

Pork with Eggplant - A delicious stew with vegetables and spicy rice is easy and simple to cook for dinner or lunch. It will take about half an hour to cook, so this recipe can be categorized as "if you need dinner quickly." The dish turns out hearty, fragrant, spicy. Turmeric colors the ingredients in a beautiful golden yellow color, cloves, cardamom, garlic and chili pepper add savory notes to the dish. Choose lean meat for this recipe.

seed propagation in the garden strawberry familiar to us, unfortunately, leads to the appearance of less productive plants and weaker bushes. But another type of these sweet berries - alpine strawberries, can be successfully grown from seeds. Let's learn about the main advantages and disadvantages of this crop, consider the main varieties and features of agricultural technology. The information presented in this article will help you decide whether it is worth giving her a place in the berry.

Despite the confusion that has accumulated over the past decades with the name "Christmas cactus", one of the most recognizable and colorful forest cacti, epiphyllums remain everyone's favorite. Leafless, with flattened stems, strikingly abundantly blooming, hybrid epiphyllums with their hanging shoots and delicate flowers do not require particularly difficult care from the owners. They can become the most colorful flowering succulent plant in any collection.

Merchant buckwheat with meat and pumpkin is a simple recipe for a delicious dinner or lunch. I advise you to bring it to readiness in the oven, although you can also on the stove. Firstly, it tastes better in the oven, as the buckwheat is steamed, it becomes very tasty, and the meat is tender. Secondly, the hour that it languishes in the oven can be spent on yourself or communicating with loved ones. Perhaps many will decide that buckwheat with meat is an ordinary dish, but try to cook it according to this recipe.

Often, at the sight of a beautiful flower, we instinctively bend over to smell its fragrance. All fragrant flowers can be divided into two large groups: nocturnal (pollinated by nocturnal butterflies) and diurnal, whose pollinators are mainly bees. Both groups of plants are important for the grower and designer, because we often walk in the garden during the day and relax in our favorite corners with the onset of the evening. We are never put off by the fragrance of our favorite fragrant flowers.

Pumpkin is considered by many gardeners to be the queen of the beds. And not only because of its size, variety of shapes and colors, but also for excellent taste, useful qualities and a rich harvest. Pumpkin contains a large amount of carotene, iron, various vitamins and minerals. Due to the possibility of long-term storage, this vegetable maintains our health all year round. If you decide to plant a pumpkin on your site, you will be interested to know how to get the largest possible harvest.

Scotch eggs are amazing! Try to cook this dish at home, there is nothing difficult to prepare. Scotch eggs are hard-boiled eggs wrapped in chopped meat breaded in flour, egg and breadcrumbs and deep fried. For frying, you need a frying pan with a high rim, and if you have a deep fryer, then it's just great - even less hassle. You will also need deep-frying oil so as not to smoke the kitchen. Choose farm eggs for this recipe.

One of the most amazing large-flowered tub cubanola Dominican fully justifies the status of a tropical miracle. Heat-loving, slow-growing, with huge and in many ways unique bells of flowers, cubanola is a fragrant star with a difficult character. It requires special conditions in the rooms. But for those who are looking for exclusive plants for their interior, the best (and more chocolatey) candidate for the role of indoor giant cannot be found.

Chickpea Curry with Meat is a hearty hot dish for lunch or dinner inspired by Indian cuisine. This curry is quick to prepare, but requires pre-preparation. Chickpeas need to be soaked in in large numbers cold water for several hours, preferably at night, the water can be changed several times. It is also better to leave the meat in the marinade overnight so that it turns out juicy and tender. Then you should boil the chickpeas until tender and then cook the curry according to the recipe.

Rhubarb can not be found in every garden plot. It's a pity. This plant is a storehouse of vitamins and can be widely used in cooking. What is not prepared from rhubarb: soups and cabbage soup, salads, delicious jams, kvass, compotes and juices, candied fruit and marmalade, and even wine. But that's not all! A large green or red rosette of plant leaves, reminiscent of burdock, acts as a beautiful backdrop for annuals. Not surprisingly, rhubarb can also be seen in flower beds.

Today, experiments with non-banal combinations and non-standard colors in the garden are in trend. For example, plants with black inflorescences have become very fashionable. All black flowers are original and specific, and it is important for them to be able to select suitable partners and a position. Therefore, this article will not only introduce you to the range of plants with slate-black inflorescences, but also teach you the intricacies of using such mystical plants in garden design.

3 delicious sandwiches - cucumber sandwich, chicken sandwich, cabbage and meat sandwich - a great idea for a quick snack or for a picnic in nature. Only fresh vegetables, juicy chicken and cream cheese and a little spice. There is no onion in these sandwiches, if you wish, you can add an onion marinated in balsamic vinegar to any of the sandwiches, this will not spoil the taste. Having quickly prepared snacks, it remains to collect a picnic basket and go to the nearest green lawn.

Depending on the variety group, the age of seedlings suitable for planting in open ground, is: for early tomatoes - 45-50 days, medium ripening - 55-60 and late dates- not less than 70 days. When planting seedlings of tomatoes at a younger age, the period of its adaptation to new conditions is significantly extended. But success in obtaining a high-quality crop of tomatoes also depends on the careful implementation of the basic rules for planting seedlings in open ground.