What is the best way to insulate a doghouse? House of superior comfort: insulated booths for dogs

“The winter was very cold, not only trees, grapes and perennials froze, but also dogs,” writes a member of our portal. This article tells how to make a winter booth and an insulated dog kennel with your own hands. Here are diagrams, drawings and photographs of buildings in which even freezing dogs can easily survive the most severe frosts.

• How to make a booth for a dog for the winter: dimensions, drawings, workflow
• How to make a warm dog enclosure: drawings and photos
• Examples of ready-made warm enclosures for FORUMHOUSE users

How to make a doghouse for the winter

Construction begins with calculations. The dimensions of the winter booth should be optimal: the dog will be cold in spacious mansions.

The dimensions of the booth are calculated depending on the size of the dog.

Insulated booth for dogs with their own hands.

When building a warm booth, be guided by this table (dimensions for an adult dog are given):

Dimensions of a warm booth

The resulting dimensions of the winter booth can be slightly changed upwards, they cannot be reduced.

Internal dimensions for building a warm do-it-yourself dog house

Drawings of a winter booth and a warm enclosure for a dog

Having decided on the dimensions, you should draw a sketch of the booth, observing the following rules:

• make a hole in the long part of the booth, and not in the center, but by shifting it to any side;
• a gable roof with an attic looks better, but dogs like to lie on the roof, so it is preferable to make a shed;
• insulated, but removable roof will allow regular cleaning of the premises;
• in the winter enclosure for the dog, protection from the wind is necessarily done;
• you need to install a dog aviary on a hill, in a place from where the dog will have a maximum view of the site;
• the booth must be placed on a platform that excludes flooding with water.
• the floor of the insulated booth should not touch the ground;
• so that the wind does not blow into the booth, the entrance from the vestibule to a warm room must be made obliquely from the outside.
• the insulation of walls, floors and ceilings must be done in good conscience, “as yourself”.

Alabaev Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a frame with 100 mm foam without gaps, siding outside, 40 mm floorboard inside, roof - soft tiles.

Here is a drawing of a classic winter booth, on the basis of which many projects of FORUMHOUSE participants are implemented.

And these are drawings of an insulated enclosure for an Alaskan Malamute puppy, built by our user with the nickname Sat-Electric.

The walls of the enclosure are sheathed and insulated in the place of the built-in booth

The drawings were made based on the size of the dog with a small margin for the internal partition.

How to make a booth for a dog for the winter: the order of work

The construction of the winter booth begins with the floor, which is made double and warm. Then they make a frame, walls, ceiling.

Necessary:

• saw off two bars 40x40, the length is equal to the width of the booth,
• sew a floorboard on them;
• turn the structure over, install a beam 100x100 in each corner and a length of “booth height + 45 mm”;
• in the place where the manhole is established, put 2 bars 40x40;
• fix the intermediate racks on which the roof-ceiling will rest. Their length is equal to the internal height of the booth;
• sheathe the booth with lining from the outside;
• make a warm removable ceiling: put together a perimeter of 40x40 cm bars and sew on a plywood sheet. For the ceiling in a large booth, it is necessary to cut intermediate blocks to prevent sagging plywood;
• insulate the ceiling with mineral wool, polystyrene or other insulation, sew a second sheet of plywood on top, make a roof;
• waterproof the bottom of the booth by treating the tree with a special compound. A roofing material can be fixed to the bottom with a stapler and two pieces of timber 100x50;
• insulate the floor, make a finishing floor;
• insulate the walls.

Irishe4ka Member of FORUMHOUSE

We made the inside of the booth from fiberboard, which was nailed to a 50mm bar, and PPS 50mm was placed in the resulting niche. Ennobled with lining.

In such a booth, the dog will be comfortable at any time, but in severe weather, the hole should be closed with special curtains.

Ma'am Member of FORUMHOUSE

Any durable material is taken a little larger than the entrance to the booth. It is cut into wide strips, which are fastened together at the top with an overlap. The top is fastened with a bar above the entrance to the booth. Show the dog once that it is not a solid wall, and he will climb in and out without any problems.

Here is a winter booth made by our member Shamilich. There are two rooms in the booth: a “winter road”, the dimensions of which were calculated based on the size of the dog, and a vestibule.

Shamilich Member of FORUMHOUSE

We are ready for the cold weather, which I am personally sincerely glad about. I am sure that the dog will appreciate our efforts!

In severe frosts, a winter booth for a dog can be filled with straw. There is no need to feel sorry for the straw: the dog itself will throw out the excess and arrange an ideal bed for itself.

How to make an aviary for a dog for the winter

When constructing an aviary, the following rules should be observed:

• The aviary is made away from the street fence.
• Part of the walls of the enclosure should be deaf to protect from the wind. You can make a completely closed aviary with a fenced walking area.
• The strip foundation will help to avoid undermining.
• Part of the enclosure must be covered with a canopy so that the juice can hide from the rain, and in the summer from the sun.
• The aviary is a rather expensive design, it is better to do it right away thoroughly.

Requirements for insulated enclosures depend on the breed of dog. So, enclosures for a Caucasian or Alabai are made on a slab or other massive foundation, with concrete pillars of the frame, and no chain-link for fencing the enclosure - only reinforcement. Enclosures for dogs of other breeds are subject to less stringent requirements.

A member of Sat-Electric made the enclosure without a foundation so that it could be moved to another location if necessary.

To build such an aviary for a dog, you need:

• level the surface;
• overlap and with a margin for deflection spread sheets of waterproofing roll material. Glue the places of overlap with a burner;
• make a frame from a bar 150x100.

• sheathe the frame with a thick board, bend the waterproofing.

• lay OSB on top - a plate (or better a grooved board).

• assemble a frame from a bar 100x100.

• Attach temporary diagonal braces to stiffen the frame.
• Assemble the roof structure, cover with metal tiles.

• Sheathe the walls and insulate the area of ​​the built-in booth (the booth is also insulated).

• Treat the floor and walls with decorative and protective material.
• fasten the net (or lattice, depending on the breed of the dog).

There are many successful examples of warm dog enclosures on FORUMHOUSE. The solid project of our user with the nickname rombikk deserves attention. This warm winter aviary made of bricks is made by hand.

How to insulate a dog house for the winter?

In the article, we will analyze the options for performing thermal insulation and try to select materials that will provide warmth to your pet at minimal cost.

Basic principles

Do you need insulation

Let's start from afar - with discussions about whether a dog needs insulation in principle.

On the one hand, wild relatives of domestic dogs - wolves do not look for a warm shelter for the winter, even in severe cold. A typical wolf's lair is a pit, somehow covered with spruce branches or located under an eversion. Yes, after a heavy snowfall, it is comparatively well sheltered from frost and bad weather; however, when looking for shelter, the wolf does not pick up too much shelter for itself.

Caring for your pet, who guards the house, is understandable. However, does it need to create greenhouse conditions for it?

In the humble opinion of the author, warming the booth for a dog is desirable only if you have a short-haired or smooth-haired breed. Dogs with long hair perfectly adapt to the cold: they quickly grow a thick undercoat, thanks to which the dog sleeps well on bare snow.

The booth is an excellent shelter in case of rain and strong winds. However, a dog that lives in the cold is in most cases healthier than a pet.

However: in extremely severe frosts, dogs are usually just allowed into the house.
Remember the proverb about bad weather and a good host?

insulation requirements

When deciding how to insulate a booth for a dog, you need to remember: we are dealing with an animal that obeys, first of all, its instincts. You can’t explain to the beast that you don’t need to tear the rug on the floor, gnaw at the canopy at the entrance and claw at the foam on the walls.

So:

• Insulated dog kennels should not have internal or external walls that are easily damaged..
  Styrofoam padding on the floor or Styrofoam interior lining is not an option.
• Any mineral wool insulation must be reliably isolated from the internal volume of the booth.
  fibers mineral wool annoying human organs breathing - what can we say about a sensitive dog nose! And they will rise into the air with any strong shaking.
• Pole is a good idea. But it must be dense and very durable: the dog will surely play with it. Considering the grip strength of guard dogs, a tarp or insulated vinyl will not last long.

• It is desirable that the heat-insulating material be natural or emit in environment as few harmful substances as possible.

Electric heating

It is possible. We will not discuss its expediency: if it is possible to supply power to the booth, it is quite possible to make it heated.

The advantages of this solution are obvious:

• Even in severe frost in the booth, the temperature will be quite comfortable.
• More importantly, it will always be dry there.

Please note: among other things, this means the absence of mold.
A dog, like any other living being, exhales humidified air, which will condense on cold surfaces. In a warm booth, you can forget about this problem.

The cost of electricity will be more than small: with an area of ​​​​a square meter, a warm floor will require no more than two hundred watts of electrical power.

What's the catch?

There are two problems:

1. Dog activity. If the heating elements are not protected absolutely reliably, sooner or later a situation will arise when the dog scratches the floor or walls and gets to them.
2. Don't forget about humidity too. Yes, underfloor heating film tires are protected with bituminous stickers; however, in a pool of water, a short circuit is still theoretically possible. As a result, we will get not an insulated dog house, but a delayed action portable electric chair.

Where will the water come from if the booth is thermally insulated and heated? There are a lot of options - from snow brought on its paws to a situation where a sick or frightened dog has forgotten where the nearest tree is.

Conclusions?

• As a heat source, you should choose not a film heater, but a heating cable. It has reliable protection against short circuits along the entire length.

• If the heating element is placed on the floor, it is better not to be lazy and pour the screed. Since it is pointless to warm the soil, the screed is poured over the laid foam. Of course, sleeping on concrete is a dubious pleasure, so it’s better to lay a sheet of thin felt on top.
• When laying in the walls, the heating cable is protected by plywood or other durable material. Yes, in this case, a significant part of the heat will be absorbed by the gasket, but the alternatives are simply dangerous.

Thermal insulation options

So, how to insulate a dog house? Let's look at several options of varying complexity.

Felt

In terms of time and money, this option is the easiest and cheapest.

It can be implemented with your own hands in just a couple of hours.

• Mats are cut out of thick felt according to the size of the walls, roof and floor. For cutting, a regular sharp knife is used.
• They are fastened inside the booth with the roof removed with ordinary roofing nails with wide hats.
• The roof is in place.

What is the result? We get a fairly effective insulation that will not be blown by the wind. The material is environmentally friendly and will not harm the health of our pet. No less important - it has good vapor permeability: there will be no dampness in the booth.

The main advantage is vapor permeability.

Mineral wool

Let's be honest: its use is rather doubtful. The design will turn out to be quite complex; in addition, for the sake of high-quality insulation, the walls will have to be made very thick.

How to insulate a dog house with mineral wool?

The instruction for thermal insulation work itself is familiar to anyone who has ever performed insulation of a loggia or balcony with the help of this heater:

• The walls are covered with a vapor barrier, which is attached with a stapler.
• On the walls around the perimeter of each, a crate is stuffed from a bar of 50x50 millimeters.
• Mineral wool mats are cut to size with a knife and inserted into the crate, after which the second sheet of vapor barrier is hemmed with a stapler (see also).
• Outside, along the crate, the booth is sewn up with plywood, OSB or wooden clapboard.

Styrofoam

Against the background of the previous insulation, the foam has several noticeable advantages:

• It provides the same effective thermal insulation with less thickness.
• . Its heat-insulating qualities do not deteriorate over time.

How to insulate a dog house for the winter with foam? Minus the unnecessary vapor barrier - just like mineral wool.

However: you can get by with a much smaller thickness - from 2 to 4 centimeters.
Against the background of heat loss through the manhole, the difference with a thicker insulation will not be felt.

Along with home-made designs, already insulated dog houses can be found on sale. In most cases, it is the foam that is used in them, laid between the two walls of the lining. To look at such a product is quite informative.

The product in the photo is called Max. Its price is 599 euros, which is quite comparable to the cost of a small country house.

Roll insulation

Let's be realistic: with an open hole, thermal insulation will not significantly affect the temperature in the booth. It is much more reasonable not to increase the thickness of the walls, but to reliably protect the dog from drafts.

In this case, you can get by with inexpensive roll heaters.

• Foamed polyethylene provides reliable wind protection and good thermal insulation already at a thickness of 4-6 millimeters. It is attached to the walls, floor and roof of the booth with the same stapler, after which it is again sheathed with any durable material.
  The crate is not needed: short self-tapping screws can be screwed directly through the insulation into the boards, so long as they do not stick out inside.

Useful: on sale you can find polyethylene foam with an adhesive layer. The method of its fastening is familiar to you if you have ever performed insulation of plastic windows or steel doors: after removing the protective glossy paper, the material is simply pressed against the surface. In this case, temporary fastening with a stapler is not necessary.

• Penofol - an advanced version of roll insulation. On one side of the polyethylene foam, aluminum foil is applied, which reflects infrared radiation. Fixed between the inner and outer walls of the booth, the material will further reduce heat loss.

Penofol is an effective and inexpensive insulation.

Conclusion

As you can see, there are a lot of options. If you are still thinking about how to insulate a dog house, in the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic. warm winters you and your pet!

Winter cold can be a real test for a dog. Of course, there are breeds of northern origin (Husky, Malamute) with a good undercoat and thick coat that can withstand -40 degree frosts. Their ancestors - sled dogs, worked in frost and snowstorms, without much harm to health endured swimming in icy water. One need only recall the 1925 expedition to deliver a diphtheria vaccine to the city of Nome in Alaska. But it must be remembered that already at -15 ° C, the dog will need a more high-calorie diet and periodic rest in the warmth.

If a dog that is usually kept outside is taken into the house with the onset of cold weather, it will feel uncomfortable and may rush back to the street, damage furniture, show anxiety and aggression. So it is necessary to equip the dog with a reliable shelter from cold and precipitation, having determined ahead of time what to put the dog in the booth and how to insulate the walls. In some cases, a warm dog house with infrared heating will be a suitable solution.

If we are talking about representatives of decorative breeds, short-haired dogs, then keeping them on the street is contraindicated. So that the dog does not catch a cold on a walk, it must be dressed. Waterproof overalls are worn if it is slush or sleet outside. A multi-layer quilted winter blanket for dogs is good because it leaves paws open without restricting the dog's movement. In stores, you can also find winter boots for dogs and stockings that cover paws to the shoulders. They must be made of non-slip fabric and not squeeze the dog's paws.

Clothes will protect the dog from the cold, and shoes - from the dirt, salt and chemicals that sprinkle the streets in winter. If the dog walks without shoes, then the paw pads must be washed and greased to avoid drying out of the skin and the appearance of cracks. The walk should be interrupted if the dog trembles or shrinks into a ball - these are signs of hypothermia. You can read more about clothes for dogs.

Booth design

A dog that is kept in the yard needs a warm kennel. Such a warm booth for a dog must meet several parameters. In height, it is necessary to focus on the growth of the animal and make a margin of 10 - 15 cm, the depth and width should allow the dog to lie freely, stretching out its paws. It should be borne in mind that the dog in the booth will lie, sit and walk. But too large a kennel will also quickly cool down without external heating.

Deciding how to do warm booth for a dog, you should decide on the basic building materials. A wooden winter booth for a dog will always be preferable to a brick one, including from the point of view of the possibility of warming. In a brick kennel, you will have to make a wooden frame, which will be filled with insulating material. This will reduce the internal area of ​​the booth. Elite options for booths are made like a Russian hut - from logs, the gaps between which are clogged with tow.

Interestingly, a dog booth for the winter can consist of one room or have a kind of vestibule that protects the kennel from drafts. It is separated from the bed by a partition, which is taken out for the summer. The entrance can be curtained for better protection against the ingress of cold air. The folding roof will allow you to quickly carry out cleaning. The roof of the booth is made of thick boards. It is not recommended to upholster it with metal, as the kennel will quickly cool down. The roof may be sloping, but not gable, as in summer many dogs like to climb on top of the booth.

The walls of the booth should not be made from non-grooved boards. In the cold, the boards will dry out and cracks will appear. Plain plywood or lining will not protect the dog from frost. Typically, an insulated dog house consists of a frame, insulation, inner and outer skins. The floor is made of a solid board (3-4 cm thick) without gaps so that the dog's claws do not get stuck. At the entrance, they often make a low threshold. Laz can be upholstered with metal.

Warming materials

Shavings, foam plastic, felt or mineral wool are used as insulating materials.

The litter will have to be replaced regularly, but it is still better than fabric, which the dog can chew on or pull out of the kennel. But sawdust is something that is not worth laying in a dog's booth in winter, because they get into the nose and climb into the eyes, causing inflammation. Prickly dust prevents the dog from properly lying down in the booth.

If the kennel has double plank walls, then shavings or straw are poured into the gaps between them. If the question arises, how to insulate a dog house for the winter, and then return to the summer version, then this is the right solution. But in this case, fleas can overwinter with the dog.

Styrofoam

Felt

You can upholster the booth from the inside with felt. It will also come in handy for a curtain at the entrance, if you place a felt sheet between two strips of tarpaulin. Its sheets are easy to cut, the edges do not need to be processed. Such insulation is not covered with plywood sheets. A tarpaulin can cover the booth from the outside to protect it from rain. It will be difficult for the dog to pluck or chew on it.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is valued for its durability and good thermal insulation qualities, but it deteriorates when exposed to moisture and shrinks over time. Mineral wool is also insulated with thermal film because the ingress of its particles into Airways dogs are highly discouraged. On top of the film sheathed with boards.

Heating

In areas where frosts are especially severe, it makes sense to install a dog house heating on a wall, roof or in a kennel frame.

Film and panel heaters are common. The film heater in the dog house operates with the help of infrared radiation and is able to provide heating up to 60 ° C. It does not dry out the air, heats the kennel evenly, is equipped with a temperature sensor to stop heating when a certain temperature is reached. The ultra-thin thermal film of the heater is mounted under the skin, and metal panel heaters about 2 cm thick are attached to it from above.

Some models have a thermostat with which you can manually set a comfortable heating level. Many experts consider the installation of a heater in the kennel unnecessary, explaining this by the fact that the dog is able to adapt itself to low temperatures growing undercoat. In addition, the transition from a well-heated room to the street and back is harmful for the dog. A tambour can protect against this, in which it will be cool, but still not as cold as outside.

It is difficult to determine if a dog is cold in a kennel in winter, as it is a rather resistant and patient animal and is capable of not showing signs of hypothermia for a long time. But dogs usually try to deal with overheating on their own. Many owners want to know why the dog does not sleep in the booth in winter or runs there for a short time. It is quite possible that a short stay in the kennel is enough for the dog. But it is possible that the booth is poorly ventilated, cramped or hot.

You can often see that the dog gnaws at the insulation or drags out the bedding from the booth, sleeps in the fresh air. He can also spend the whole day outside, running and wallowing in the snow. The main condition for maintaining the health of a pet in winter is regular nutrition, and the winter diet should be about a quarter of the calories of the usual one, and food should be given more often. The dog should have enough water, for which, in frosts, a bowl or basin is filled with snow.

If you have a private house and there is a pet that lives on the street, then the issue of building a home for him requires the closest attention. We will figure out how to make an insulated booth in which the dog will be comfortable both in winter and summer, we will also figure out how to choose optimal dimensions what materials to use and in what sequence the work should be carried out.

I have lived almost all my life in the private sector, so I have experience in building booths.

Determination of optimal sizes

This is the most important aspect, because if the dimensions of the structure are not designed for the dog, then it will be uncomfortable for her to stay in the booth. If it is too small, then the dog will be crowded, and if it is too large, then it will be cold in the booth in winter, which is also highly undesirable.

There is a whole algorithm for determining sizes, but I will not bore you with scientific calculations, but will tell you everything as much as possible simple form, in principle, the table below contains information that is suitable in most cases, and below I have outlined the main recommendations that you need to consider:

• The height of the booth inside should be 10-15 cm higher than the height of the dog, this is taking into account the fact that a warm bedding will be laid on the floor;
• The width should be 10 cm more than the height of the dog so that it can lie on its side with legs extended;
• The length of the booth should be 5-10 cm longer than the length of the dog, while the tail is not taken into account;
• The size of the hole is calculated as follows: its width should be 5 cm more than the width chest dogs, and the height is less than the height of the dog by 5-10 cm.

Now let's deal with the optimal location of the booth, since its choice is also of great importance:

• The kennel should be closed from wind blowing, take into account the predominant direction of movement of air masses and place the structure behind the barrier;
• If your dog guards the courtyard, then position the booth so that lying in it, the dog can see the gate and most of the yard;
• The structure should be located near the entrance, preferably on the south side;
• There should be a shaded area within reach of the dog so that he can hide there in the summer heat;
• It is important that the structure is not flooded in the autumn and spring, place the booth on a hill, if not, then make an embankment on your own.

Step by step description of the workflow

Now let's figure out how to organize the work and what you need to have on hand. I will talk about a simple option that can be implemented in just an hour if you have experience, and in a couple of hours if you are a beginner and do everything slowly. Let's start with the preparatory measures, since without them it is unlikely that it will be possible to cope with the work.

Gathering everything you need to work

First you need to collect all the materials, we will use this set:

Remember that dogs have a very delicate sense of smell, so treatment with various chemicals from fungus and pests can have an irritating effect on the pet. In extreme cases, you can cover the outer parts with the composition, but not the inner ones.

When carrying out work, you can not do without a tool, we need the following set:

• To cut materials, you can use either a conventional hand saw or a power tool: a jigsaw, reciprocating or circular saw, etc. In principle, there is not much work and you can get by with a hacksaw, among other things, it also cuts the insulation well;

• To tighten the screws, you will need a screwdriver, and if you use nails, then a hammer is enough. If you will be using self-tapping screws, then make sure you have the right type and size of nozzles;
• All measurements are made using a tape measure or a metal ruler; any suitable pencil can be used for marking. To make perfectly even ends, it is best to use a carpenter's square.

When preparing, I strongly advise you to draw a sketch of the future design or find a ready-made version on the Internet. Believe me, if you clearly understand the final result and know all the design features of your booth, then in the process of work there will be no unnecessary questions, and you will not think what to do next, because there is a ready-made plan before your eyes.

Construction construction

To begin with, I will show you a diagram so that you understand the sequence of work, and then I will tell you in detail about each of the stages, everything is quite simple and you do not need to be a professional builder to master this process:

• First you need to make the frame of the lower part, it can be assembled either from a bar of 50x50 mm, or from a bar of 100x50 mm, it all depends on what temperatures are in your region in winter. The second option seems to me more solid, so I chose it, the structure is connected with self-tapping screws 7 to 8 cm long or nails 100 mm long, jumpers are laid to increase strength, which are fastened in the same way;

• Then the flooring is nailed to the upper part, it is important to fix the elements as firmly and reliably as possible.. After that, the structure is turned over, glassine is laid on it from the inside, after which pieces of polystyrene are cut out and laid in the cavities, the remaining gaps are filled with mounting foam, it will serve both as a heater and as glue. Then another layer of glassine is laid outside, and the surface is covered with clapboard or;

From below, you can additionally attach two longitudinal bars or separate supports so that the structure is not located on the ground and is not saturated with moisture. This simple addition increases the life of the booth by at least one and a half times.

• Vertical racks are exposed, if your roof is gable, then they should be the same size, and if single-pitched, then one side should be higher than the other, the angle should be at least 15 degrees. Racks are best strengthened using a metal corner, which allows you to quickly assemble a very strong frame, it is important to set all the elements evenly so that the booth is neat;
• The frame is reinforced with crossbars at the top and in the middle, and the end parts should be made as separate shields that can be fastened securely and quickly. As a result, you should get a design similar to the one shown in the diagram below, there are no special requirements, the configuration may differ, the main thing is to strengthen the location of the manhole with bars on both sides, so that later you do not have to redo the frame;

• Next, you need to sheathe the inner surface of the walls of the booth, for this a lining is cut or pieces are cut out of plywood of the required size. When attaching, try to position the heads of the screws or nails so that they do not protrude above the surface, as the dog can get hurt on such elements if they stick out. Try to do everything as carefully as possible so that all the details fit together as best as possible;

So that the dog does not drive splinters, I always grind the surface of the lining or boards before sheathing the inner surface, this is a very important aspect that should never be forgotten.

• Then a heater is laid in the frame, I used polystyrene, but if you suddenly have mineral wool left after work, then it will do. It is important that the material does not emit small particles that can disturb the dog's sense of smell, glass wool is not suitable for this purpose. The entire space is filled with insulation, after which the joints can be blown out with mounting foam, and the surface can be covered with waterproofing material;

• After that, the outer part is sheathed, it is best to use lining for work, it looks great and has good thermal insulation performance. After finishing, all the cracks are again sealed with mounting foam, you should get a kind of sandwich panel like the one shown in the photo below. This design will perfectly protect the pet in the winter;

• Since I'm looking at a lean-to roof option, the top-opening design will become great solution. It will allow you to check what is happening inside, especially if the pet is sick and does not go outside for a long time. The hinged part can be attached to two door hinges, while in order for the joint to be reliable, pieces of felt or non-woven material can be stuffed around the perimeter;

• Then, insulation is laid between the bars of the roof frame, after which the surface is covered with waterproofing material and sewn up with plywood or board. Further, a crate is stuffed on top and roofing material is attached, if you buy it, then the easiest way is to order a piece of corrugated board of the required size. It must be screwed with special roofing screws;
• Lastly, the outer part is painted or coated with a weatherproof impregnation or varnish.. This will protect the wood from moisture and make your booth more attractive. After the composition dries, you can put the structure in place and populate your pet in it.

As for operation, you can put a litter inside, there can be many options: from a tailor-made cover into which foam rubber or non-woven material is placed, to finished products that are sold in stores. In especially cold periods, you can put straw in the booth.

For the winter period, you can nail a curtain made of dense material over the manhole, it will protect the opening from the penetration of cold.

Conclusion

I hope that this simple instruction will help you build a warm and comfortable booth for your four-legged friend. The video in this article will clearly show some points of the workflow and help you understand the topic even better. If you have any questions, then write them in the comments below the review.

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