Garden structures for flower beds. How to preserve the beauty of your favorite flower beds: we make fences for flower beds with our own hands from improvised materials

Today I want to talk about my flower garden and grateful flowers, as well as about my mistakes, maybe someone will come in handy.
We moved into the house in November, but it was already clear that we would have to "plow and plow" on the site. To remove the diseased "hedge" had to uproot 44 trees. But it was sunny outside.

In the spring, the first thing they did was take up the lawn, I made the first baby bed with flowers. It looked pitiful back then.


And then, one fine day, I come home from work, and my husband has already made a canopy for the trailer

I think: "It won't work, you have to break a flower garden, otherwise your husband will take up the whole place." And the work began... We laid out a flower garden at 18 meters.
The soil is clay, do not drive a shovel. What to do?
In Internet! And in that bearded 2008, he had only two answers to this question - sand and sawdust. They brought sand, dug up, a couple of waterings and asphalt again.
They brought sawdust, dug it up, even worse, plasticine turned out.

And the flowers are already growing and asking for help!
And then I was lucky - I got to not quite a master class, but like a question-answer conference of one Dutch grower and asked him a question about my own. soil. The answer turned out to be so simple ... He said that sand and sawdust are harmful, try to collect clay in a container, weigh it, add sand, weigh it. they have become much heavier - that's how the sand makes the clay heavier, and if you add water, you get a building mixture, sawdust - it absorbs everything, but gives nothing away. He said that the problem with clay is not that it is dense, but that it is cold. This is where you need to "dance".
And then I remembered ... in the villages they covered the cracks in the walls with a mixture of clay + sand + water, and sawdust was thrown to the piglets on the litter, they absorbed moisture and the floor remained dry. So those were my mistakes...
And I decided not to dig, not to loosen, only to try to "warm up". My husband mowed the grass from the lawn, I laid it out in the shade, dried it and on the flower garden, first with a thin layer. After a couple of waterings, the grass disappeared, no, it didn’t overripe, it just disappeared, as if it was being sucked into the clay. Then she began to lay a layer a little thicker, the same thing. It reminded me of how to feed a homeless hungry kitten - gradually, little by little. And again, again, again ... I must say right away that this process is not for one year, I have been doing this since 2008 and now the soil in my flower garden is such that I can tear it with just my hand. But all these years I haven’t dug a flower garden, I don’t loosen it, I just feed it with grass. If you need to plant something, I make a hole with a garden peg.
I began to treat the earth as if it were alive. Previously, many human diseases were treated by bloodletting, but now they are given injections, that is, they are treated with little blood. So I used to cut the ground, and now only injections.
But for myself, I made a couple of conclusions - if annuals sprout by self-sowing, the last mulching in the fall should be done before the seeds are dropped, and the first in the spring after the emergence of flowers, because it is very difficult for self-sowing to break through the mulch layer. If I plant something with seedlings, for example, I do astrum-mulching after planting.
After mulching “before winter”, I lightly sprinkle earth on top, otherwise the birds will set up a chicken coop and will rake, and the dry grass will not be carried by the wind.
According to the results, all the flowers begin to bloom earlier than the neighboring ones, but continue to bloom longer, they do not get sick, they are "fun", I do not give additional fertilizer.
I propose to see what I got as a result - the results for the past year
start with lilies

Each hostess, who has her own land, tries to ennoble it with flower beds. Most often they are located next to gazebos for relaxation or directly near the entrance to the house. In order for her to have a well-groomed, attractive appearance, you need to have some skills. But it is not necessary to contact a professional designer at the same time, with some effort, you can design your site yourself.

First of all, you should decide what exactly you want to create. If you have chosen a rustic style, then the flower bed can be decorated with old painted tires, decoration from an old bicycle, etc.

They are popular and distinguished by their sophistication compositions with ornamental trees and coniferous shrubs. Firstly, they do not require special care efforts, and secondly, they look great all year round. If you opt for this option, you should consider that such plants require an acidic environment.

Fallen needles, a small part of peat and soddy land are used to prepare the soil. Then the resulting mixture must be poured into a previously prepared recess with a layer of 50 cm. Coniferous plants should not be planted close, in the future they will grow. Better complement it with boxwood, rhododendron or erica. For a finished look, the edges of the flower beds will also require decoration.

Another interesting option is a flower bed of perennials. A lot of planting schemes have been developed, where the location, color scheme, and flowering period are interestingly chosen.

With proper care, such compositions do not require annual planting of new flowers. Using the suggested tips, your site will look presentable for several months of the year.

Flower bed of continuous flowering - the ideal solution for the front flower garden

Breaking a flower garden at the entrance to the house, I want it to always look attractive. The ideal solution would be to create a flower bed of continuous flowering.

To successfully create such a flower garden, you need to consider a few rules:

• The flower bed should be planted with both perennial and annual flowers. And even bushes.
• It is necessary to choose plants with approximately the same requirements for humidity, light and watering.
• There should not be plants - aggressors (decorative leaf gout, loosestrife, periwinkle). Also undesirable are perennials that are easily inseminated (lupine, poppy, aquilegia).

The next step in creating a continuous flowering flower bed will be a plan on paper. Drawing a plan, we define its contours. We also compile a list of perennials and their location.

Here is an approximate list of perennials by season of the year:

Spring: snowdrop, crocus, blueberry, pushkinia, muscari, hionodoxa, hyacinth, tulip, narcissus, primrose, hellebore, saxifrage, daisy, hazel grouse, anemone, liverwort, erantis.

Summer: here is the largest selection of various perennials: aquilegia, delphinium, poppy, lily, kupena, chamomile, daylily, peony, aquilegia, hosta, carnation, lychnis, rudbeckia, iris, phlox, cornflower, monarda, cinquefoil, sedum, euphorbia, bluebell, geyhera .

Autumn: chrysanthemum, perennial aster, gelenium, goldenrod, sunflower, coreopsis.

You can also identify groups of out-of-season plants that are attractive for a long time. This is primarily coniferous plants, spruce, mountain pine, juniper. This also includes ornamental cereals, such as blue fescue, maned barley, miscanthus. All kinds of ferns are also decorative all summer.

The final list depends on the size of the future flower bed. But even if the sizes are large, you do not need to plant a large number of various perennials, it is better to have a few of them, but each will occupy a larger area. So we will avoid excessive variegation, which will greatly complicate the perception of the entire flower garden at once.

The resulting list of plants is divided into two groups:

The first is plants that have a short growing season. These are mainly spring bulbous plants. In their place, annual flowers should be provided. It is very good to plant plants that form a large green mass from one root.

An ideal variant of such a plant is a petunia. It can be planted a little aside from the place where the bulbs are in the ground, and, growing, it will completely close it.

We will include all the remaining perennials in the second group - they will not spoil the look of the flower bed after flowering.

Having decided on the list of perennials and their features, we begin to place them on our plan. To do this, number each with a serial number from one and so on. It is even fashionable to cut out rectangles or circles from paper and number them. Then lay them out on the plan, trying on various options for arranging plants.

When the plan is ready, then, most likely, some places will remain completely empty. This is where peers will help us. From annuals, it is better to choose unpretentious ones, such as high and low marigolds, annual asters, petunias, nasturtiums, annual dahlias.

All these perennials are characterized by low maintenance requirements and a variety of colors. This will allow you to choose plants that will organically combine with existing perennials.

Then you can proceed directly to the preparation of the site. It is better to do this in late summer or early autumn. The site must be carefully dug up, select all the weeds. Allow the soil to settle for about a week and start planting perennial rhizomes and bulbs.

If not all plants are available, then their planting can be postponed until spring. But then it is desirable to mark those plants that have already been planted with signs.

In the spring of next year, we plant annuals. It is better to plant them with seedlings, so it will be possible to plant the required number of specimens in the places allotted to them.

In full glory, a flowerbed of continuous flowering will open only after a year, when all perennials take root well and grow a good root system.

The best decoration for a summer cottage - handmade flower bed. To create a flower bed that will please the eye and where everything will be in harmony, you need to work a little.

Make a plan for what you will do. Carefully select flowers, taking into account the time of flowering and the area. It must be protected from strong wind and sun. After choosing a place, we prepare the soil, clearing weeds, remove the top layer of the earth and fertilize it. It is good to add black soil, sand, loosen and make drainage.

One large flower bed often looks better than several small ones, but this is a matter of taste.

Take a simple shape, preferably round or oval, or irregular shape, but without corners, unless you are a specialist designer, otherwise you may get an unexpected result. Perennials are the best. Annuals are planted for novelty.

Flowers are planted from small to large, so that the large ones are in the center, or in the background if the flower bed is against the wall. In the color scheme, adhere to a harmonious transition so that it does not hurt the eyes. Everything is good in moderation! A few bright accents, usually warm colors, and the rest is a background of cool colors.

Add white flowers, they dilute the colors, and black enhance warm colors. Use the principle of maximum diversification. One flowering period is undesirable, as a variegated picture may result.

If you want to make a flower bed a slide, then in the center pour the earth about half a meter high, and the bottom level is about 10 cm from the gravel. After a couple of weeks, the earth sags, then you can start planting flowers.

More and more popular. They give maximum naturalness to the landscape. The philosophy of creating such slides requires the correct placement of all elements. For summer cottages, low-growing varieties of trees and shrubs are used. Bright plants are planted separately, and background plants in small groups. The hill is planted from above. Height - from low to high. All plants are sprinkled with pebbles and watered thoroughly.

The surroundings of the flower bed are no less important than the flower itself. Various hedges, trimmed shrubs, stones, etc. are used for decoration. For decoration, you can also use various vases and figurines, which are enough on sale.

For compositions with juniper, painted crushed stone is perfect. Weaving from branches has become fashionable.

Today, options for flowerbeds, equipped directly in tires, have gained popularity. Read about here.

You can make a flower bed in a stump.

Items of old household utensils will be more useful than ever in a flower bed! - it is fashionable and relevant. But before placing the utensils on the site, bring it into a decorative form: clean it, open it with varnish ... The main thing is that there is no chaos in the flower bed or area where flowers and shrubs grow.

How to make a flower bed with your own hands from old chairs

There are several ways to decorate a flower bed. Wooden fencing has some disadvantages:

1. firstly, it quickly becomes unusable;
2. secondly, it can become a haven for aphids and mites.

An alternative would be a plastic mesh. This is enough a budget option although not very durable. It is not recommended to use it if the soil in the area is loose, the curb will quickly fail. Solidity of the site will give the use of decorative or natural stones. The only disadvantage of such a solution is the cost, but the appearance will please not only you, but also your guests for a long time.

It is advisable to use a metal galvanized border for fencing. It is durable and less expensive. The main thing is that you like the end result of your efforts.

Floating flower beds - a new hit in landscape design

Flower beds - streams

Original flower beds photo

Mobile flower beds

Vertical flower beds

Hanging flower beds photo

Compositions in the form of butterflies

Flower beds - umbrellas

Read about here.

I saw a program on TV showing very beautiful gravel beds. I have an unused area in my dacha, I want to try to make the same flower bed there. Give me please, step by step recommendations how to make a gravel flower bed in the country with your own hands.

Dacha is a favorite vacation spot for happy owners of a private house. And if there is also a piece of land, then in between rest you can work. After all, nothing inspires people to "ennoble labor" like fresh air. In addition to cultivated plants in the garden, each dacha must have a flower garden, and the shape of the flower beds depends only on the summer resident's imagination. It can be either a simple, unenclosed front garden along the fence, or an artsy flower bed. Recently, a new trend has become more and more popular - a gravel bed, which practically does not need weeding, since weeds are removed even at the stage of laying the flower bed.

Benefits of a gravel bed

A gravel bed is a kind of mixture of stone and plants laid and planted in a certain order. This is a small stone garden, which confidently crowds out simple flower beds due to its advantages:

• Requires minimal maintenance due to total absence weeds, because instead of soil - gravel backfill;
• the possibility of creating flower beds in various places of the site (in the shade, in the sun, on a slope, in remote corners);
• giving any shape and size;
• simple technology for breaking up a flower bed;
• no need to frequently water and fertilize planted plants.

Making a gravel bed in the country with your own hands is not so difficult, following the following step-by-step recommendations.

Soil preparation

Select the area where the flower bed will be laid out and mark its boundaries - drive in the pegs and pull the rope. A flower bed of irregular shape will look more organic. Further, in the intended area, remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 20 cm. Select all the roots in the place designated for the flower bed. In order not to miss the weeds that have not yet sprouted, moisten the site and leave for a week so that they hatch, and also remove.

Next, dig the area. To create a drainage layer when digging, add coarse sand or expanded clay. Then compact the earth a little with a garden roller and cover the dug-up area with the first layer of geotextile. It will serve as an obstacle to perennial weeds remaining in the depths of the earth, and will also keep the gravel from subsidence.

Geotextiles cut into pieces must be laid so that a continuous web is obtained. Between themselves, the pieces are fastened with special decomposing fixatives.

After that, it will be completely covered with a mulching cloth, in it every 3 sq.m. holes must be pierced to drain excess water.

Preparing a site for planting

Having decided on the places for planting plants, they are also cut out in agrofiber, guided by the size of soft planting containers. Dig a hole in the cut hole, put a container there, fill it with earth and plant the prepared plant. Such containers are very convenient when laying gravel beds, as they protect the root system of flowers or shrubs from damage and separate the landing site from the gravel layer.

If the desire to plant new flowers appears after the flower bed is covered with gravel, for their planting it is necessary:

1. Choose gravel in a place for planting.
2. Make an incision in the geotextile and tuck the edges down.
3. Dig a hole for a seedling.
4. Plant a plant, sprinkle with a small layer of earth, water.
5. Place the removed gravel in place.

Filling the flower bed with gravel

Fill the space left after planting with the first layer of gravel. Lay a second layer of geotextile on top and cover with a second decorative layer of gravel.

Video on how to make a flower bed from colored gravel

Add to bookmarks:

This article outlines all the main steps and procedures for preparing and caring for a flower bed, here you will also read briefly about transplanting and pruning trees and shrubs. Subject to all these simple recommendations, the flower bed will delight you throughout the season, without delivering anything special.

Before the start of work

If your goal is a truly beautiful flower bed, then good preparation plot - the key to the success of the future flower bed. And before you go to your nearest nursery (garden center), answer these few questions:

1. Is this location suitable for this plan? The projects that we offer on our website are listed with all sizes and are broken down for better orientation with a grid.

For example:

Flowerbed project "Little space, lots of sun, minimum care"

This bright, lush flower bed will be beautiful all summer long. Daylily and purple echinacea play the main role here.

Flower bed size: 3 m by 4 m (10 by 13 ft)

Grid scheme:

1 square in the diagram - 1 x 1 foot
(i.e. 0.305 m by 0.305 m)

List of plants planted here:

• A. 1 piece New England aster (Aster novae-angliae ”Purple Dome”): hardiness zones 4-8
• B. 3 pcs. Whorled coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata "Zagreb"): hardiness zones 4-9
• C. 2 pcs. Echinacea purpurea (Echinacea pupurea "Magnus"): hardiness zones 3-9
• D. 1 piece Stock rose pink, or Althea pink (Alcea rosea): frost resistance zones 3-9
• E. 3 pcs. Spikelet Liatris (Liatris spicata "Floristan Weiss"): hardiness zones 4-9
• F. 1 piece Buddleja davidii "Black Knight": hardiness zones 6-9
• G. 1 piece Perovskia swan-leaved, or Russian sage (Perovskia antriplicifolia): hardiness zones 5-9
• H. 1 piece Stonecrop (Sedum ”Autumn Joy”): hardiness zones 3-10
• I. 1 piece Lavender angustifolia (Lavandula angustifolia): hardiness zones 5-8

Of course, you can use the flower bed designs as a basis, varying the size of the flower bed, adding or excluding certain plants from the list to your liking. The only thing to consider: if you change the size of the flower bed a lot, its character will change significantly.

2. Do these conditions correspond to the conditions of the selected project? Carefully review the list of plants for what conditions are preferable for them: sun, partial shade, full shade. Also, pay attention to the indicated zone, or hardiness (USDA Zone classification). Otherwise, ignoring such an important property of a plant as frost resistance, you run the risk of seeing a lifeless bush or “bald spot” in your beautiful flowerbed one fine spring.

3. Do I need to do something with the soil? Most plants thrive in moist, well-draining soil. If you are dealing with sandy or clay soil (soil containing a large proportion of sand or clay), it should be enriched with organic matter, or compost.

4. Is everything in order with the pH level and soil fertility? Firstly, you can try to determine the pH level yourself, secondly, you can contact, say, the local forestry with a request, and finally, you can invite a specialist. Once you have determined the pH level of the soil, you can adjust it as desired (make the soil more acidic or more alkaline, depending on which is more suitable for the plants you have chosen).

We are preparing the site

The first step is to mark the boundaries of the future flower bed. To do this, we take a garden hose and lay out such a curve as we would like to see the edge of our future flower bed. You can also take some flour and sprinkle it around the edge of our flower bed - as a temporary marking on the grass. Now we take a shovel (shovel) and mark the edge of our flower bed.

If the area is covered with sod, then we need a shovel with a sharp, straight edge, with which we will remove the sod. This task, by the way, will be easier to accomplish if the site is well watered before starting the operation. How to remove the sod: we take a rectangular shovel and “chop” the sod into strips: strip width \u003d shovel width, strip length - approximately 1 m. When performing this procedure, you will need a sharp shovel and therefore you will have to sharpen its edge all the time (keep this in mind!) .

Now, when the turf is cut into strips, your task is to cut it with the same shovel and twist it into “rolls”.

When finished with the sod, the earth will need to be loosened with a shovel, or soil cutter.

soil cutter

Soil cutter loosens the earth

Regardless of how you prepare your flower bed, take a moment and mix the soil with organic fertilizers such as compost, peat moss, or sphagnum moss, manure humus, or manure and loosen the soil to at least 15 cm. Do not use inorganic fertilizers until you are convinced by a test that this is really necessary. In practice, it has been proven that excess fertilizer does more harm than good.

So, the plot for the flower bed is ready. Water your future flower bed generously and leave it alone for one week. During this one week, weeds will have time to sprout on your site, which you can easily pull out of the ground manually, or destroy by digging up the site. You can also use herbicides, but in this case, carefully read the instructions and be sure to follow the interval indicated in it before planting can be done on the herbicide-treated area.

Landing

If your plants are in your hands, so much the better. Place flowerpots directly on their future places and get a preliminary impression of appearance Your future composition. In which case, it's still not too late to "castling"!

When you find the arrangement of plants completely satisfactory, start digging holes and planting plants in them. You should start with the largest pots, and end with the smallest ones (usually, according to this principle, trees are planted first, then bushes, then perennials, and at the very end - annuals).

Tree planting tips: Dig a hole for planting a tree twice as wide as its container, or the diameter of the root ball, but in depth this hole should be the same as the depth of the tub / pot, or the height of the root ball. If the tree is in a container (tub / pot), the soil around its roots should be released gradually. And only after carefully extracting the roots, we place the root ball in the hole. The burlap in which they were wrapped should be removed as much as possible. Once the tree has been placed in the hole in its permanent position, level it to a vertical position and begin filling in the gap between the root ball and the edge of the hole with soil. At the same time, first fill the hole in by a third, tamp it tightly - this will ensure contact between the roots and the soil - and water it. Repeat the whole procedure twice more, adding a third of the soil at a time. When the gap disappears, leave the hose turned on under the tree and water the tree in a new place for 30 minutes. Adjust the water pressure so that the water flows slowly.

Bush planting tips: Dig a hole for planting a bush twice as wide as its container, or the diameter of the root ball, but in depth this hole should be such that the upper part of the root ball of the bush is slightly above the level of the soil surrounding the bush. Fill the gaps with garden soil, tamping down firmly to ensure good adhesion of the bush roots to the soil. Immediately after planting the bush, place a hose at the base of the bush, turn on the water so that it flows slowly, leave the hose under the bush for 20 minutes to ensure slow watering.

Tips for planting perennials and annuals: There are no special rules for planting annuals or perennials. Plant these plants exactly flush with the ground (the level that this plant had in the pot should match the ground level in the flower bed). Pack the soil around the plant with your hands and water thoroughly.

Flowerbed edging

Caring for flower beds and borders is greatly simplified if you provide the flower bed with an edging that will hold grass and weeds. Any material is suitable for edging a flower bed: plastic, metal, stone, brick - whatever you like, or whatever you have at hand.

If your flower bed is surrounded by, consider delimiting the lawn and flower bed with a strip of stone 15-30 cm wide.

Mulching

At the end of planting work, sprinkle the soil with mulch. Mulch retains moisture, cools the soil, and prevents erosion.

Organic mulch, such as shredded bark, will need to be reapplied every two years as the mulch is exposed to natural phenomena gradually decomposes.

A mulch like crushed stone is more durable, but it will not improve the quality of your soil now or over time.

Aftercare

The most critical period for a new flower bed is the first year. During the first two weeks, water your flower bed as often as possible, then your flower bed will need 2.5 cm of water per week throughout the season.

IN next year you can let your flower bed “run its course” by watering it only during dry periods.

The first year of your flower bed you will also need to diligently control the growth of weeds and constantly weed / break through them.

When the plants get stronger and grow, weeds will have much less chance. A thick layer of mulch will also help you with this by not giving the weeds too much freedom.

Care in later years

In subsequent years, most plants will grow well with minimal care. If your trees and shrubs need to be trimmed, do it at the end of winter before intensive growth begins. True, at the end of winter, shrubs that bloom in spring should not be cut, such as, for example, lilacs, which are cut immediately after flowering.

Translation: Anna Zhurbenko
specially for the Internet portal
garden center "Your garden"

If you are a beginner florist, then the question is, how to make a flower bed may be quite difficult for you. There are many subtleties in creating a flower bed, but a fairly clear procedure can also be distinguished. Let's take a look at it.

The flower beds are mostly made up of perennial flowers. However, how to make sure that the flower bed is not tired?

A long-tested technique is the placement of beautiful bowls, pots or amphoras in a flower bed with perennials. Depending on the season, you can plant different annual flowers in them, as a result, your flower bed will look different even during one summer season.

In each flower bed, a place should also be made for such plants that will attract attention outside the main flowering period. In our flowerbed, the season is opened by a decorative apple tree and bulbous flowers, and in the autumn blooming asters and stonecrops delight the eye.

Let's now get acquainted with how to make a flower bed. We will describe step by step the main stages of creating a flower bed - preparing the land, planting flowers and caring for them ..

How to make a flower bed - soil preparation

1. Spring - best time for breaking up the flower bed. First of all remove all weeds from the roots. If you are breaking up a flower bed on a lawn or lawn, first remove the sod from the selected area with a shovel.

2. If necessary, treat the soil: on heavy, clay, the addition of sand will help; light structure clay soil and stone flour (bentonite) will improve the soil.

3. Compost- a miraculous remedy for creating healthy soil, for increasing its fertility: it retains water, improves air exchange and equally well affects the structure and properties of both heavy and light soils. Compost is introduced into the soil before breaking any flower bed or garden bed.

4. loose soil creates the most favorable conditions for the development of the root system of newly planted plants. Thoroughly loosen the soil with a garden fork to a depth of at least 35 cm, while mixing the compost scattered on the surface, sand, clay, and other substances necessary to improve the soil.

5. A flower bed with perennials is best fertilize with complex mineral fertilizer long-acting (pictured) or a complete organic fertilizer that will "work" all season. They are embedded in the soil during spring processing according to the instructions on the package.

Flowerbed planting plan

1. Climbing rose "New Dawn".
2. Clematis vine (Clematis vitalba).
3. Decorative apple tree "Evereste".
4. Boxwood spiral.
5. Bell peach (Campanula persicifolia) with white flowers.
6. Bell peach with blue flowers.
7. Delphinium "Finsteraarhorn".
8. Phlox paniculata (Phlox paniculata) "Starfire",
9. Miscanthus Chinese (Miscanthus sinensis).
10. New Belgian aster (Aster novi-belgii) "Schoene von Dietlikon".
11. Aster cushion-shaped (Aster dumosus) "Prof. A. Kippenberg".
12. Salvia "Ostfriesland".
13. Euphorbia multicolor (Euphorbia polychroma).
14. Stonecrop-skripun, or hare cabbage(Sedum telephium).
15. Majestic geranium (Geranium magnificum).
16. Iberis (Iberis) "Weisser Zwerg".
17. Veronica spiked (Veronica spicata).

How to mark the ground under the flower bed

At first distribute the plants according to the planting plan- depends on the area that you can take under the flower bed. Usually planted at least three copies of each species.

Making a flower bed - how to plant plants

In order for all plants to take root well, without loss, a number of rules must be observed already when planting.

1. Carefully take out young plants from pots. If the roots are caught in the bottom of the plastic container, carefully cut through the plastic.

2. If the earth ball is too dry, put the plant back in the pot, immerse in water and hold until air bubbles stop rising. Immediately before planting, carefully spread the densely intertwined roots with your hands.

3. For each plant dig a hole, loosen the ground at the bottom of the hole well. Plant so that the surface of the earthy coma is at the level of the edges of the planting hole.

4. First time after landing the flower bed is watered daily. The earth should never dry out completely. After a couple of weeks, water according to weather conditions.

How to care for a flower bed

What will the flower bed look like in a year?

In a year not all plants are as tall and powerful as they will be next year, but in summer salvia, phlox and delphinium are already in full bloom. In the amphora, a purple mini-petunia flourished, and in front of a curtain of Chinese miscanthus, a stonecrop has already put out green shields of inflorescences.

In two years a flower bed with perennials is already admirable. All plants have taken root well, have grown, empty places are now not visible.

Thanks to the correct placement of plants - taking into account their height - they are all clearly visible: blue salvia candles against the background of green phlox leaves make a beautiful contrast with mini-petunia and fragrant tobacco in an amphora. White and blue bells bloom nearby. Delphinium blossoms rise above the New Dawn climbing rose. And the decorative apple tree (on the right) has almost completed its growth.

Gallery of photos of flowers for a flower bed

Now that you know how to make a flower bed, you may want to make a flower garden according to our scheme. Let's take a closer look at the plants that are used in it.

You can replace this or that plant to your liking when you make a flower bed. However, try to choose a similar one in height, color and flowering time - all this should be taken into account.